When I have a new client come in, I always proceed with caution. I am super gentle and I don't use any irritating products. Of course, I also find out if they are allergic to anything or using anything that would cause a problem.
Most of the time I use the Coconut/Papaya Enzyme (I have another enzyme I use from another line but it is also super gentle), followed by a azulene gel mask (sometimes SS seaweed mask but I was finding that people felt this one too much so I don't use it as often) and a hydrating mask. I check their skin throughout the facial to see if anything seems abnormal and it is very rare that something will happen.
Every once in a while I will have a client contact me after to tell me that they had a reaction to the facial. Breakouts usually, sometimes a little lingering redness (even though they didn't leave red). I am confused why this is happening because it doesn't happen with my acne clients. It seems to be with people who have pretty good skin and want to start doing anti-aging stuff.
I don't understand so I'm hoping someone has some perspective for me. I feel bad and hate for this to ever happen but I know it is part of the job. I just had someone send me a text telling me she has broken out and is red (I have found that most people exaggerate but I plan for the worst!). I am asking her to come in tomorrow so I can look at her skin. Any recommendations for that? Now I'm nervous to do anything!
THANK YOU!
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Devyn - do you know WHAT product(s) you used when this occurs?
Are you using any other exfoliating product or device?
I use the Rasp/Peach enzyme for first timers.
Even though it's "just" an enzyme you need to make sure all products are removed entirely. I tone with very damp pads of Cucumber Mist after removing enzyme - but you could also do that after a masque.
And I guess I am in the minority in that I have never had anyone react to the Seaweed Masque.
For the record - I have only had one adverse reaction to Skin Script products - and she is VERY sensitive - she could not use the moisturizers at all (Aloe or Ageless). And have had NO reactions after a SS facial (including peels).
I don't use the Rasp/Peach on 1st time clients b/c I found I couldn't use it (I have crazy, sensitive skin) but I can use the Coconut/Papaya.
As far as what products I use when this occurs (which, again, let me say is rare), yes, I know. I pretty much use the same ones for everyone varying on the 1st mask. I will switch from Straw/Spearmint mask to a gel mask.
I do my 2nd cleanse with the Glycolic Cleanser sometimes so I think I'm going to stop that one. I base my 1st facial on what my skin can handle. I know it seems strange but since I really can't handle many products, I figure if my skin tolerates it, so will my clients (given there are no contraindications).
I am also good at removing product. I use sponges and then a towel. This was mentioned again when I took the SS class in Az in May so it something I always remember.
Thanks Cindy! :)
Hi Devyn: Have you listened to our "Critically Thinking Webinar" yet? This webinar emphasizes that you, the aesthetician, should stop, not panic and think about the client intake form. Did she have breakouts in the initial facial? I realize as aestheticians we can internalize this information and panic that "we did something wrong", when in fact you might re-evaluate her skin and find the root cause. Did she have underlying acne when she came in? What were her next few days like? Did she wax her skin? What is she using at home? Is she on medications? Did she go to the swimming pool the next day? What type of homecare is she using? Any retin-a? Have your client stop in and evaluate the skin. What type of breakouts are you looking at? Pustular? Papular? Are they expelling from closed comedomes? Any allergies?
Talking to your client prior to leaving will help. "Mrs. Jones, you could have breakouts or reactions after a facial. It can be normal. Please call me if you need further assistance." Your consent form should also list "more than one treatment is necessary", and "sometimes, although rare, adverse reactions can happen".
I understand your nervousness. The key is to stop, think, re-evaluate the intake form, the information you wrote on the treatment sheet about the condition of the skin, medications, lifestyle. etc. You might find the root cause with the client.
The next Critically Thinking Aesthetician webinar is September 4 and you can register at: http://skinscriptrx.com/training-schedule/
I hope this helps! Thanks!
Thanks Lisa. I participated in that webinar before (probably should do it again) and I went back over all her stuff last night. I am going to see her at 8:30am so I will know more then but she said it started that night (I saw her Saturday). She isn't on meds, doesn't have acne or any breakouts, just some blackheads. She has been using Cetaphil, Oil of Olay and Neutrogena products at home. No retinols of any kind.
I know I will learn more when I actually see her and can talk to her but I just wanted to see if I was missing something obvious. She was so happy when she left, even brought her daughter in later that day, so I feel bad that something went wrong.
Did she tell you what she put on it? Skin can be more reactive after a facial depending on the person.
Arggh - it is so frustrating when you can't pinpoint the issue!
BTW - the girl that could not use the moisturizers had gotten red, flaky patches - kind of like eczema. I could not figure out what ingredient her skin was reacting to - since she has reacted to alcohol in the past we did suspect that ingredient.
I like to price my facials high enough so that I can send people home with trial home care if they aren't ready to purchase...so I can control what they use for a few days at least. I have had a couple of people "mess up" a facial by using one of their (crap) products :) .
One girl I have told repeatedly not to use that nasty Mary Kay micro-derm cream - and certainly not after one of my facials!
She hadn't done anything to her skin after the facial so this happened strictly b/c of what I had done. :(
Do you agree that I should stop using the Glycolic Cleanser on the 1st visit?
It is so frustrating when we can't pinpoint it. How can we learn?!
She got samples from me and so do most of my new clients. It doesn't always work out but it does enough. And, of course, I feel them out first. I am not going to waste my samples on someone who is clearly not going to use them or switch.
I never looked at giving them samples as me controlling what they use but I like that! Sometimes it seems though, that some are just going to do what they want.
I reacted to the Ageless Skin Moisturizer too. I got super itchy but that happens a lot with moisturizers. It's one of my biggest selling moisturizers though.
Thanks again, Cindy!
Sometimes it takes weeks or months to find the root cause. E.g., I had a woman going through a peel series and her forehead wouldn't respond to the peels (everywhere else was fine). I kept asking "why doesn't the forehead respond?" and it wasn't until the 4th treatment that she remembered that she used to wax her forehead every week for a year. That resulted in the skin resembling scar tissue. I knew then that I needed to be much more aggressive on the forehead with my peels and microderm.
For your instance, just know that you need to be careful in certain areas.
Have patience in finding the root cause, but keep asking. You learn by experience. Believe me, I've made my fair share of mistakes, but that's how I learned. Have confidence in yourself and the products and always work with the client so they know you care and are working on a solution.
Devyn -
I really LOVE the Glycolic cleanser, but I do not use it for a regular facial.
I either do 1st with Pomegranate if they are wearing make-up, otherwise if I am doing a double cleanse I do both with the Green Tea Cleanser
I typically use the Glycolic more like a Peel Prep in the treatment room. But once you know your clients' skin pretty well I think you can decide to use it whenever you want a little more exfoliation or penetration.
I'm glad I'm not the only one experiencing this. I have a client who I've seen a few times, but when I stepped up to a slightly more aggressive treatment, she had a pretty intense reaction. Turns out, she's exfoliating at home often, and using AHA's that she didn't previously disclose. >_/p>
Well that will get you every time!
I try to get a handle on their current home care before any facial.
You really can't gaurantee outcomes if they aren't using the home care that you rcommend!
For a repeat client just go over quickly what they are using and ask about any changes...every so often you will get someone who won't be forthcoming (we have ALL had the retin-a users who won't tell because they WANT a peel). At least she told you.
I like this thread. My recent example was that after a Lemon Zest facial she reported that her face was tingly at night. I was stumped as she said she uses only mild products at home ... until her friend standing beside her says, "could it have anything to do with your glycolic moisturizer you use at night?"
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