I have one word to say "WOW". When a client walks in for a 8am appointment (I felt like I looked half awake!) and asks me what I did to my skin...I know I'm on to something big!!!

 

I recently found out about this new organic peel and tested it on myself. Read my full story here:

http://www.shelleyhancock.com/collajam.html

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Excellent information Marty! What you are saying is my tag-line for my business.  Simply Beautiful, Naturally Simple.  My business name is: Simply Natural Skin, LLC.  I do believe that it needs to be 'simple'....ingredients/products/treatments. The road to healthy, beautiful skin doesn't have to be complicated. A simple, honest formulation is key...and you have explained it beautifully. It doesn't matter if one is looking at a more 'organic' natural approach, or a beautiful 'in the lab' formulation.

Marty, 

I am familiar with reading an ingredient label to find the 1% line, I reinforced my understanding by attending the Cosmetic Chemistry seminar at UCLA, and am beginning to understand a LOT more as I work in my formulary lab.

I also agree with you about the hazards of angel dusting/greenwashing, as well as the barrage of extra ingredients that are often included to stabilize emulsions (especially in cases where a simple formula would work as well or better) because the marketing is that you need a heavy cream to do the job, or over-preserved in order to kick out product that can be stored for ages and ages.

Christine,

Normally what you find, or I should say "I" find, is the formulator does not really understand the request and takes a formula from another more well established one and starts from there.  And why remove ingredients when most product mfgrs (Including private label) don't know and the base formula has a higher base cost so why make a different one from scratch. 

That's great you took the course, puts you ahead of many.  I know after doing this for 5 years and close to 100 products later, that the experience is invaluable when dealing with the many complexities of the skin. But also it is a source of frustration since marketing is such a huge part of the industry, but you do what you can and that is all you can do.

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

Yes, that's a good point about lazy formulating.  I am still trying to wrap my mind around HLB values, so my emulsions thus far definitely qualify as lazy formulating :)  Hoping to get more original (and more simple, elegant) as I understand the ingredients better.

From working as an esthetician these past years, I actually see the marketing as an opportunity... but then, I like explaining ingredients to clients, and would happily do that all day long.

Anyway, thank you for your input on these conversations!  I do hope more estheticians are inspired to learn more about ingredient science.  To that point, is there a "bible" to this work that you recommend?  I am reading a couple of Perry Romanowski's books but it is slow going with all my other responsibilities.  I'd love to hear what you recommend for the average esthetician trying to improve ingredient knowledge.

Christine,

Not really the place for this but since you asked me for a detail...here it is.  Understanding these two pictures and EXACTLY what is happening is how I started to develop skin care. If you understand these, then you are on your way and it wont be long. But if these look like freeways and little cars, then a little more study would really help. I am always available to help and give my knowledge but sometimes I am not sure what the correct time is or the place.

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

Let's hear about them!  I'm ready to learn!

PS - I was actually asking for a book reco that you feel would be good for estheticians to better understand how ingredients work, I wasn't expecting you to give me a crash course on formulating (although I'm happy with that as well).

Wow....had no idea my sharing something that I saw results from would open up such a discussion...it's a good thing though!! Great information has been shared!! I've got some more in-depth info about this product that I'll post on my website for those that are curious.

Thanks Shelley for introducing this fabulous new product.  I have been in the skin care industry for 25 years and have always focused on a more holistic approach to skin care.  Seaweeds and land plants have always proven to be so beneficial for skin.  That is what first drew me in to the Collajam concept.

It is acutally a product that uses as its base the "spine" from the sponge which contains calcium carbonate. . The product comes from Asia and is only marketed under this name here in the US.  The spine is very rough so they developed a micronzied patent pending process that insures that the spine particles are small and all the same size so they can be used on the skin.  It's still abrasive but manageable.

We all know the high assimilation capabilities of all products from the sea due to the "likeness" factor between seawater and blood plasma.  It seems that the sponge spine also has a high assimilation capability (porosity)  so the manufacturer took advantage of this to add other wonderful and skin rejuvenating ingredients.

We have been using and testing Collajam for over 8 weeks and continue to be thrilled with the results.  I myself, up to this time, could only do the Green Peel on my skin ... but the commitment, both time and money, was always a factor.  I can say these results are similar and are much easier to achieve.  Our clients, both my spa owners and the clients at our spa center are loving this. 

It works great with whatever products you offer and a great add to your skin care technology program.  A tremendous boost, a great revenue producer with a high client satisfaction.  The before and afters were taken of someone we know and if we didn't know the authenticity we would have a hard time believing as well. 

The sample program makes it an easy "try it for yourself" approach.  Since the protocol is two treatments, 10 days apart, there is a two treatment syringe available for $50.  thereafter it comes in a kit, 10 treatments and one back bar after treatment product for $325.

Results of collagen reorganization are apparent within 48 hours and tightening and firming results will increase over the next 45 - 60 days. Skin peeling varies according skin health and condition.   If you have questions call Shelley or myself at 877-754-6749.

I thought it might be helpful to mention here that sea sponges, phylum Porifera, are actually within kingdom Animalia - so technically rather than belonging amongst "seaweeds and land plants," they are an animal, and thus we should be letting our clients know that this treatment is animal-based, coming from the spine of an animal, rather than plant based, so that they can take that into consideration making their decisions.  I know some of my clients might object if they realized sponges are animals.


Please don't take my skepticism the wrong way, I am always interested in trying new products and experiencing things for myself, even when I am initially skeptical.  You will understand that my first duty of course is to protect my clients' skin and wallets :)

My DH who is involved with conservations says, "they are actually free-swimming in their larval stage. Like a little fishie!" :)

You are right Christine.. they are a species for sure ... they just absorb like a sea plant.  Thanks for bringing this forward so we know all we can about the products and services we deliver to our clients.   Being informed is essential to being successful.

Christine,

Its not that easy.  Let me explain.

Every product made can be divided into two groups: Active and Base

There is nothing really in between.  So the key is, deliver the active with out the base.  Now we know you cannot do that so how I can I deliver the active with as little base as possible.  Thats the key...

There is no book on that, you just have to really know what a base is and most important have a very good relationship with your chemist. Now what I did was researched U.S, EU and Health Canada for banned ingredients, then cross referenced the names among manufactures (we all know the name of an ingredient has many different names - there is a reason for that as well) and made sure each and every ingredient passed the hot list.  Its not a 100% perfect system but its pretty good and I think among the 1%. 

Now that was for your base, right?  Now for the active ingredient...

The proven active ingredients have been written about for years and the actual study material and documentation is available in a few special books but more importantly at the top universities such as: Columbia, USC, UCLA, Stanford just to name a few.  If you read the peer review and documented findings you will find the results your looking for and the details on the actives your looking for. It is all there, promise. I could go on but that is the birds eye view.

So you see, there is no actual book, its a philosophy and way of thinking about skin and skin care. Those pictures are a key to understanding formulas as they help with an overall and not a specific point.

I hope that helps.

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

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