Just Tested the Collajam Organic Gel Peel!!!

I have one word to say "WOW". When a client walks in for a 8am appointment (I felt like I looked half awake!) and asks me what I did to my skin...I know I'm on to something big!!!

 

I recently found out about this new organic peel and tested it on myself. Read my full story here:

http://www.shelleyhancock.com/collajam.html

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Permalink Reply by coldsalineplexus on July 6, 2013 at 1:22pm

So, the ingredient acts like little sponges that holds your other skincare products deeper into your skin?  Or does it actually contain other ingredients that are being delivered over multiple days?

Permalink Reply by Shelley Hancock on July 7, 2013 at 8:41am

I'm still learning about this product and have forwarded your fabulous question!! In the meantime until I get the answer....I have put up a full ingredient list on my website.

Permalink Reply by Lyn Cole-Fugate on July 9, 2013 at 12:09pm

That sounds fantastic Shelley, I shall love to see the end results. This sounds like a fantastic product, keep us all posted on your progress. Like you I would want to be the human guinney pig before putting it out there!!!

 

Permalink Reply by Devyn M. on July 7, 2013 at 8:56am

I'm intrigued. So the cost to us is $295 for 10 treatments? I would like to try this to see if I like it first so I will buy the sample size. 

I hope this is as good as it seems! :)

Thanks!

Permalink Reply by Shelley Hancock on July 7, 2013 at 9:04am

Yes, you can purchase one treatment for $20. Give me a couple of days to get the particulars worked out with the company and then I'll have PayPal buttons set up. We really need to be able to purchase two treatmetns instead of just one, so I have to talk to them about it...check back soon!!

Permalink Reply by Marty Glenn on July 7, 2013 at 11:09pm

I thought I would try and put a different idea about this product for those who have never been close to manufacturing or spent time in a lab or for those new to the skin care industry and are confused on what is and what is not.

 

Within the skincare industry just about anything can be said and a patent can be acquired with relative ease. In fact, if I use an ingredient that is patent pending from the creator (The lab) who made the claim and acquired the patent, the ability for me to claim the patent only by using it as a skin care company in one of my products is something that I can do.

 

With that said, I always approach any new product with these thoughts in mind and so far it has really kept my head level and focused on the tried and true.

 

One thing that is very interesting about this product is its claim to one ingredient but a huge ingredient deck to make a base for delivery. This points to three things right off the bat: 

 

1. Either this is a private label product

2. The formulator is driving the price up to the client who is purchasing it

3. The formulator has no idea about keeping it simple and does not care about all these extra ingredients. Who knows what they all do as individual ingredients or combined.

 

I added this point so new skin care pros can understand exactly what it is they are paying for when deciding to take on a line.

 

I researched this a little further and I would like to point out two things:

  

Listed below is how you can tell with reasonable certainty that this product is not made custom and for a specific purpose but private label. I did not complete my homework but where you see the words (NO NEED), there is in fact no need for this ingredient within the product (I JUST NAMED A FEW TO MAKE A POINT).  The claim is made against the second active ingredient and according to its ‘Listed’ place as #2. Now there is no government body that is going to regulate the honesty of this ingredient deck and its percentages so you will just have to trust it.

 

The website is here: http://www.collajam.com/

 

The picture of the lady, second on the right, her after picture has been altered.  The way you can tell is the way it looks ‘smudged’ right beneath her eye.  The other way is the area just beneath the eye (look at before picture) which is a classic sign of aging among women 30 plus. That can only be fixed with fillers from a Derm or plastic Surgeon. The results in that picture would make this a billion dollar product and I am sure those results would have to be confirmed by the FDA, right? Topical can only do so much in this area and my experience with plastic surgery tells me that this before and after is suspect.

 

The other pictures are not even worth commenting on.

 

 39 ingredients in the deck but 38 to deliver 1?

 

Full ingredient list:

Water

 

Hydrolyzed Sponge (MAIN ACTIVE INGREDIENT)

Chem/IUPAC Name / Description: Hydrolyzed Sponge is the hydrolysate of sponge obtained by acid, enzyme or other method of hydrolysis

 Functions: Skin conditioning

 

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (NO NEED)

Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil (NO NEED)

Polysorbate 60

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Squalane

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil (NO NEED)

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Cetyl Alcohol

Lactic Acid (NO NEED)

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Dimethicone

Tocopheryl Acetate

Caprylyl Glycol

Triethanolamine

p-Anisic Acid (NO NEED)

Portulaca Oleracea Extract (NO NEED)

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (NO NEED)

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract (NO NEED)

Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Benincasa Cerifera Fruit Extract (NO NEED)

Yeast Beta-Glucan

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract (NO NEED)

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract

Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract (NO NEED)

Benzophenone-5

Arbutin

Carbomer

Adenosine

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Laureth-7

Polyacrylamide

Poloxamer 338

Poloxamer 235

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Tocophersolan

Stearic Acid

 

I hope this really helps the skin care pros who are new or who have never seen this done before.  Deeply looking at a skin care product is easy to do when you know what to look for. But as I always say: results are results and the client is the proving ground.

 

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

 

Permalink Reply by coldsalineplexus on July 8, 2013 at 5:10am

Marty, THANK YOU.  This is so important for new estheticians to understand.  

I will add another possible reason for the complicated vehicle and the inclusion of some of the ingredients you labeled as "no need": 

It's possible that, just maybe, the makers understand that microsponge is -gasp- not actually a miracle ingredient and, just maybe, by including known skin conditioners like lactic acid, aloe, sorbitan, beta-glucan, and willow bark extract, proven antioxidants like tocopherol and EGCG, along with a rich emollient base containing several oils and a robust emulsification system, they can actually convince users that they have benefitted from the "magic ingredient" in the product, when really, it is a pretty standard rich moisturizer and therefore will provide a bit of skin-softening and hydration benefits to skin that needs those things.

At the end of the day, you're right - our clinical experience with a product is the ultimate determinant of a product's value in the marketplace.  What is interesting to me is how much claims (the manufacturer's and ours as clinicians) can influence the client's perception of their own results!  To me, this points to the importance of thoughtful ingredient study among estheticians.

Permalink Reply by Devyn M. on July 9, 2013 at 9:08am

Thank you for this. I often get caught up in the excitement of things but luckily, I NEVER bring to my clients until I am CERTAIN that they will deliver results. If they are short-term, I am ok with that but that is how I will market it to my clients. If they are long-term, obviously they are more beneficial and what I am searching for in the end. 

I can't experiment with much on my skin but I use my family and friends as my guinea pigs. :) I am looking for treatments that will help with aging in the long run, not just something that will make them feel good for a couple of hours (although for some, that is enough!). 

I am super honest with my clients and they know that about me so they completely trust me. 

I really appreciate you taking the time to break this down. It saved me from having to do it when I purchased the product! haha :)

Permalink Reply by Colleen frasca on September 9, 2013 at 1:44pm
Hi Marty,
I enjoy reading your comments and would like your opinion. I have my own practice and strive to use good products. I have PEVONIA , ACUTE DERM and ISKYN(pumpkin peel pro). What line would you reccomend to treat acne?

Colleen
Permalink Reply by Marty Glenn on September 9, 2013 at 8:02pm

Colleen

What your asking is 'Product to Skin'.  Think 'Skin to Product'...

What grade are they on a scale of 1 - 4 or maybe you like 1 - 6?

If 3 or 4, send to Derm or 4 - 6 send to Derm.

Grad 1 - 2 and or 1 - 3, here is where I would start:

What Climate?  Male or Female?  Hormonal?  What Sports?  What Age?  Acne new to client or recurring?  Stress level?  Acne in family?  So on and on...

With not knowing a single thing:  With acne I cannot help.  It is a skin disease and there is so much that goes into it.  But I want to leave you with this:

Think 'Skin to Product' and not what product line but what active ingredient and what percentage do I need to treat this grade of acne and skin type.  Does this help?

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

Permalink Reply by Colleen frasca on September 11, 2013 at 4:10pm
Yes , thank you Marty! Colleen
Permalink Reply by Marty Glenn on July 8, 2013 at 12:42pm

Christine

 

You are on the right track but there is something else with regards to ingredients and the NO NEED.  The extra ingredients are at a percentage that cannot be effective.  There is just not enough of it.  This is where if you have not spent time in a lab it would be difficult to know this part.

 

It is where they are on the deck and the number of ingredients that gives it away.

 

I have a product that only has 8 ingredients and the main active is 15% of the product and the only active and only claim. It’s a gel based glycolic acid resurfacing product.  One purpose. One Result.

 

With some skin care products there is really no way of knowing just what percentages of the active is there since there are so many to spread the 100% of total volume.  So when you see 39 and 15 - 20 are questionable, meaning how do they work together with main active to make the claim? You have to say, Hmmmm.

 

What I talk with my lab / chemist about is how can my skin care professionals deliver the SINGLE active ingredient to treat the specific skin condition with the smallest base of ingredients.  One step further, most skin conditions and the treatment has been proven over the last 20 – 30 years and the necessary active ingredient percentage to accomplish it. So stick with those actives and percentages.

Try this:  Take all your products that you would normally prescribe for say an anti-aging home regimen for AM and PM.  Count up the ingredients for each AM and PM.  How many ingredients do they put on their skin in the AM and then again in the PM?  You might be surprised at the number?

So if I am going after a skin condition with 5 actives, how many other ingredients is it taking me to deliver them to the skin?  There is no scientific evidence that those other ingredients are not causing inflammation and every single skin care product on the market is dealing with this issue.

So why not remove them all until you get to the simplest base. Do all you can to limit those other ingredients...right?

This point is the difference between private label and following the guidelines of proven actives (percentages) within the medical field for 20 – 30 years and building a product line on top of this research.  It cannot lie and before and after pictures are not needed.

 

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

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