Pigmentation and Exfoliation
I have a question about this, I have a client who has sun damage in the form of pigmentation and we have been doing exfoliations every 3-4 weeks. I started out gentle and worked my way up, I am now at a point with her that I'm using what is the equivilant of 20-25% lactic acid. She came in today and pointed out that the skin above her upper lip and eyes is darker. After applying the gel around the eyes and lips to protect those areas from the peel, it dawned on me that that's why she's darker, I can't do the peel that close to her eyes and lips so we are removing the sun damage everywhere else, making these areas appear darker now. I did an extra step today using the gentle enzyme approved for use around the eyes and lips, and will continue to do this. But does anyone have any other advice on what I can do to improve the look of these areas? These areas didn't even appear pigmented to me when she started coming in, so I never thought this would be an issue. I suggested she use a lightening gel with vitamin C on the pigmented areas as well, but I know this can take as long as 12 weeks to see skin tone evening out. I'd appreciate any insight anyone can give me.
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Jodi on
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Does anybody have any advice on this? She is coming back in a week or 2 and I want to have something to tell her and hopefully it's that we can fix it. Thanks!
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Permalink Reply by Cora Ariella on
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Sorry nobody replied to you but personally I would need to know a little more about the client before making any suggestions : age, ethnicity, Fitzpatrick type , lifestyle (we get tons of surfers here in So. CA). After many years , I am very comfortable using Jessner peel or even TCA for this kind of problem even near the eyes and lips but I cannot suggest that to you. My opinion is that you consult with the client to make sure that her medical history has stayed the same (new birth control ? antibiotic ? ). I think you are wise to be conservative but frankly I don't think you'll get very far with lactic acid and enzymes. Consult with the manufacturer of your backbar products to see what they have for hyperpigmentation along the lines of hydroquinnone, kojic acid, etc.. I do not carry PCA but anti-pigmentation products is their claim to fame and they are very trustworthy. Good luck.
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Our product line uses Vitamin C for pigmentation in their products, they don't use hydroquinnone. I have other lines that use it that I can sell, and have talked to her about it, but I prefer people use C and Kojic acid instead. I will again suggest she buy one of these products to help. She is very fair, and it's basically freckles from sun damage. We are making progress across her nose and cheeks, but the areas I don't put the peel that close to the lips or eyes, as per my protocols.
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Permalink Reply by Katrina Kulm on
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It sounds like you're doing the right protocol and home care suggestion for her. I'm not really sure what you mean by it becoming darker around the eyes and lips? Is it dark brown spots?
Even if the peel got too close to the eye and lip area, I don't think it would do that but I suppose it can cause inflammation. Sometimes inflammation can cause hyperpigmentation. Also, when you're doing peels, it can make their hyperpigmentation appear darker since it's getting closer to the surface but using the right home care products and continuing the peel treatments should help it get lighter. I don't know if this applies to all peels but that does apply for PCA peels and we give a post procedure kit to keep their skin hydrated and protected afterwards.
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Thanks for the replies. What I meant by 'getting darker around the eyes and lips' is it's probably getting lighter everywhere else from the peel I'm doing on her, but since I'm avoiding these areas with the peel, as per protocol, they are staying the same, but looking darker than the rest of her face now. I'm simply not sure how to correct this, short of putting the peel right between her nose and lip and I don't want to risk damage to her lip. The ones above her eyes, I believe I can put the peel there, it's above the brow, and will do that next time, but was being conservative and using gel around the eyes and lips to prevent it from getting into those areas, as I was taught. I can't use TCA or Jessners in my state without a medical professional on site, and also, they are not a part of the product line my employer uses.
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Permalink Reply by J.L. on
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Jodi, that really sucks you can't use TCA or Jessner's in your state. I cannot STAND how states are taking everything away from talented, skilled aestheticians who have proper training. I digress...are you sure that the coloring around her eyes is not dark circles caused by blood and maybe not "pigment." If you have to use Lactic or an enzyme, then you must have her on proper lightening agents and she really needs to be using them DILIGENTLY for 3 months. Also she needs to be on a proper SPF. Did she recently get a sunburn, did get get a lip wax and then go into the sun...? Double check with the company you're using, but put that damn enzyme around her eyes (UNLESS it's Cranberry or Cherry), leave it on for 1 minute and remove should be totally fine. Test it out on yourself first, you'll know whether you can or can't immediately.
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The pigmentation is directly above her eyebrows and lips, which is where I put the gel to protect those areas from the acid peel. I can't imagine it would be anything else. I am going to talk to her again about using a lightening agent at home, and stress sunscreen again. I think I'm more upset about it than she is, I just can't believe I didn't see that this would happen.
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Oh, Above the eyebrows - sorry for the confusion! Jodi don't beat yourself up, you were following your protocol and that's what you're supposed to do. When something like this happens to me I try and stay very calm and not show panic or stress to the client. She's lucky to have someone who cares so much.
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