I have one word to say "WOW". When a client walks in for a 8am appointment (I felt like I looked half awake!) and asks me what I did to my skin...I know I'm on to something big!!!

 

I recently found out about this new organic peel and tested it on myself. Read my full story here:

http://www.shelleyhancock.com/collajam.html

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Well, Marty, what do you see when you look at those pics?

Christine,

I put this up just for you. :)  (Taken from my professional manual)

http://skincarescience.com/scs_blog.php

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

Thanks!  Great info :)

Christine

I'll be short. (I should actually do a contest of sorts and make this more fun...anybody think that would be a good idea?)

Picture on left: electron scanning of the granular cell releasing intercellular lipids. intercellular formation of lipids and proteins and sugars. The dark slots are desmosome proteins awaiting there place.

Picture on right: shows two skin cells in the SC and the intercellular space with desmosomes. See lower left corner? That is what the enzyme process looks like as a desmosome is broken down by water and an enzymatic process which is basically the exfoliation process.

I never use scientific words and if you want more info let me know. I left a lot out. By the way, if you studied these pictures more and what is happening I have money to bet you would never do microdermabrasion on a client again. Of course that's my opinion. :)

Nice!  Always happy to learn more; I'll soak up any info you throw my way!

I'm really loving this info. Why shouldn't we do micro? Is it because something is wrong with it or because there's no need for it due to ingredients being capable of providing the same results?

This is kind of a last minute thing but Marty, I emailed you last week about Skin Science. I hope it got to you, I'm going to be in San Diego in October. Can we schedule something for me to look at the products?

Samantha

No.  I did not get it.  Sorry.  Email me at: martyg@skincarescience.com 

Let me know when in October.

As for Micro... This is not going to go over very well but you asked for details :)

The skin exfoliates in a timed manner and the desmosomes that hold the skin together are at different places within degradation or basically different points of dissolving. So the skin IS taking care of itself in a timed manner regardless of its health.

Micro is basically blowing sand paper on the skin.  Nothing more nothing less. Your taking a man made machine and with it, using human pressure to blow sand paper on the skin to exfoliate the stratum corneum (SC) .  I am sure your with me so far...

The SC because of natural and unnatural conditions is not the same thickness all over the face so here is where the problems really start.  When you apply different forces on the skin with a man made machine and there is NO WAY to keep the pressure the same. So you have high and low spots as far as the thickness of the SC.  Also, because this is all human powered you have taken good skin cells with the bad and have disrupted the TIMING on the exfoliation process.  With lower end peels they AID in the process of exfoliation and thus still allow the SC or skin to be in control.  Micro removes this control completely.

Now you might say that Jessner or TCA chemical peels do the same thing (Destroy the SC) but yet again we have a natural chemical substance that is acting on the skin and the skin is more or less in control.  I a stretching here a bit to prove a point but the process of micro vs chemical is very different. Another point is these two acids are coat dependent so you can still allow the skin to control the process where is with the micro there is no frosting to help you read the peel.

Now here for the really important information:

When you do a Micro you are also putting your clients skin in the same vulnerable place as with chemical peels yet the post peel is not as strict as with what you would do with a chemical peel. This depends on the Esty and her way of doing things but this is how I see it.

The epidermis has one function (I am stretching) and one only - "To produce the Stratum Corneum"

If you think of it this way and not all these different layers and sections it makes things slightly easier. Cells at the bottom divide and rise (Rise too fast - Problems - Rise too Slow Problems) and must do so in a controlled and timed manner and the right amount of water within the SC to keep the exfoliating process moving along. Not enough water and all things stop.  Again I am over simplifying.

Think about Micro with that in mind or maybe think of it this way:

If the Epidermis and the SC have their own timing and way of doing things then anything I do that is more mechanical ( It can help i.e. Lasers) could disrupt this timing and create issues rather then solve them. As mentioned earlier the skin is at different periods within the exfoliating process so maybe giving the skin a nudge instead of a very hard push is far better.

This is a huge subject, and I hope I have answered and not brought up more questions but if so I will try to answer.

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

Marty...here's a product ingredient list that I use regularly. Tell me what you think....

Corylus avellana hazel seed oil
Camellia kissi seed oil
Passiflora edulis seed oil
Citrus medica limonum lemon peel oil
Limonene
Lavandula angustifolia lavender oil
Rosmarinus officinalis rosemary leaf oil
Salvia sclarea clary oil
Cananga odorata flower oil
Linalool
Tocopherol
Eugenia caryophyllus clove flower oil
Eugenol
Citral
Benzyl benzoate
Benzyl salicylate
Geraniol
Farnesol

Samantha, 

I did a simple ‘Google’ search on three and found this: (Your first ingredient – since most of these are oils and I do not use any oils except in one product I produce and I do not use these or any on this list.  Where did this list come from?

Will you continue to use these regularly on your client?  Sorry, maybe I did something wrong and looked up the wrong information by doing so quickly.  I only spent 5 minutes on this so please let me know if I made a huge mistake.

 

Corylus avellana hazel seed oil

These ingredients are all derived from hazelnut trees. The two seed oils are expressed from the nuts of the hazelnut tree of the particular species identified. Most current reported cosmetic uses are of the seed oils. The seed extracts are the extract of the nuts of the identified species tree. There is one current report of use of seed extract in cosmetics. The leaf extracts are the extract from the leaves of the particular species tree. There are no current reports of use of these extracts in cosmetics. Analysis of seed oil from one species identified Oleic Acid, Palmitoleic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Eicosaenoic Acid, Docosenoic Acid, Eicosanoic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Stearic Acid, and Tetraeicosanoic Acid. Little information is available to characterize the extracts, however. The functions of most of these ingredients in cosmetics are not reported. In studies of hazelnuts from Spain and Egypt, aflatoxin was reported as a possible contaminant. Aflatoxins are considered carcinogenic in humans. Virtually no safety test data are available on these ingredients. Negative results in one comedogenicity study using a seed oil are reported. Cross-sensitivity to proteins in peanuts and those in hazelnuts are reported, but the presence or absence of protein in nut extract and plant extract from hazelnut trees is not known. Additional data were provided regarding concentration of use, method of extraction and contaminants, comedogenicity, and ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption, but these data related to nut oil from only one species, and were not overall sufficient to resolve questions about irritation, sensitization, and photosensitization. Because of the absence of data, it is concluded that the available data are insufficient to support the safety of these ingredients in cosmetic products. Because of the limited information that characterizes any of these oils or extracts, data are needed on each (except that items 1, 2, and 3 below are not needed for Hazel [Corylus Avellana] Nut Oil). The additonal data needs include: (1) current concentration of use; (2) method of extraction/manufacture and quality control (i.e., chemical analyses); (3) contaminants and methods of extraction (especially pesticides and heavy metals); (4) dermal irritation and sensitization; (5) UV absorption; if there is significant absorption, then a photosensitization study will be needed; (6) 28-day dermal toxicity; (7) reproductive and developmental toxicity; and (8) two genotoxicity assays, one in a mammalian system; if positive, then a 2-year dermal carcinogenesis study using National Toxicology Program (NTP) methods may be needed.

 

 

Camellia kissi seed oil
Passiflora edulis seed oil
Citrus medica limonum lemon peel oil
Limonene
Lavandula angustifolia lavender oil
Rosmarinus officinalis rosemary leaf oil
Salvia sclarea clary oil
Cananga odorata flower oil
Linalool
Tocopherol
Eugenia caryophyllus clove flower oil
Eugenol
Citral
Benzyl benzoate

 

Benzyl benzoate, as a topical solution, may be used as an antiparasitic insecticide to kill the mites responsible for the skin condition scabies,[2] for example as a combination drug of benzyl benzoate/disulfiram.[3]


Benzyl salicylate
Geraniol
Farnesol

 

Farnesol is present in many essential oils such as citronella, neroli, cyclamen, lemon grass, tuberose, rose, musk, balsam[disambiguation needed] and tolu. It is used in perfumery to emphasize the odors of sweet floral perfumes. Its method of action for enhancing perfume scent is as a co-solvent that regulates the volatility of the odorants. It is especially used in lilac perfumes.

Farnesol is a natural pesticide for mites and is a pheromone for several other insects.

I would think the three I checked on are skin irritants at the very least.  But maybe I have it wrong, but I do not think so.  Yet I have to admit that this is a reason I do like the forum as most here do...learning.

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

Hi Shelley,

Have you done your 2nd peel yet?  How is your skin so far?

Not yet. I went away to a beach area last weekend and then this weekend I'm speaking at the NASN meeting in Sacramento...didn't want to take a chance of any flakiness in front of a group of Estys! I'll be doing it on Monday and posting comments on my website.

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