Fast Track treating hyperpigmentation

I had a client call today to book an appt this week for a facial with peel. She is very accustomed to skin care and treatments and used to fly to Texas for peels and what not. She is using primarily Glo but she has purchased the glycolic wash as well and she uses a low percentage retin A type product on a reg basis. I have done a couple of micro peels on her as well with a 30% glycolic. I haven't seen her in a while because she stays extremely busy with work and travels a lot so she calls today and said that she really wants to work on a few HP spots she has...not a lot but a few patches, the only thing is we have about 4 weeks!! She has a work conference coming up and she wants to look good for it.

YIKES! Help!

I know that I need to get her on the retinol scrub and the retinol pads and I know to tell her to D/C use of the retinA before peeling her.

She is a Fitz 2 to 3 with combo skin and no real issues except the HP

I am wondering if I should just do a light peel this week since it's been a while, maybe add the dermafile with it or do a double peel with enzyme and a peel or micro peel.

Then next week have her come in for a TCA?? I know she doesn't want to be peeling for the conference.

Just not sure how to approach this. I know we wont get major results but I want to come up and be prepared with a treatment plan for when she comes in Friday.

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Secret Beauty on July 10, 2013 at 5:49am

I think your plan will work out fine the TCA peel does wonders on HP then back it up with another micro peel.

Good luck !!

Permalink Reply by Sheila Gordon on July 10, 2013 at 7:55am

Should I just treat her this week with one layer of TCA and then next week maybe a few layers, a few layers the following week and then the last week do a micro? Is that too much?

I was also thinking this week I could do lemon zest with lactic or tca mixed in, then do TCA 2-3 layers 2 weeks in a row and then maybe lemon zest with micro?

In the home care, should I have her use the glycolic wash daily and the retinol pads daily but when she is peeling have her back off them? What about the scrub?

Permalink Reply by Lisa VanBockern on July 10, 2013 at 9:19am

Hi Sheila: I like your idea of light peel this week with the dermafile. You could do the one or two layers of TCA next week, depending on how she does with the light peel. Don't push too hard. I feel like when we get pushed into treatments too fast is when things can go wrong.

Example: I recently had an aesthetician tell me that her client didn't appreciate the results from the first light peel. On the second treatment, she was pushed into something more aggressive because her client didn't feel she "received the results she was looking for". So she did lemon zest, removed it, and then glycolic, then dermafile. It resulted in a chemical burn.

Have patience; trust in the lighter peels. Trust in the daily usage of homecare. I would have her use homecare as follows:

1) Glycolic cleanser and retinol scrub 4-5 times a week (if she can tolerate it without overdrying),

2) The glycolic/retinol pads used twice a day directly on the pigment,

3) Serums, moisturizers, spf as normal.

Permalink Reply by Sheila Gordon on July 10, 2013 at 11:11am

Ok great thanks Lisa!! Now on the 3rd week would you go back to a lighter treatment and the 4th week since she doesn't want any flaking that 4th week? I know it will depend on how her skin handles it. I looked back at my notes with her and we did a micro and 2 layers of PCA TCA peel which IMO is not strong at all. She didn't have any flaking or anything from that. I like your TCA much better.

Permalink Reply by Sheila Gordon on July 12, 2013 at 11:08am

Another question...and I know you can't really know not knowing the client but I am thinking that today when she comes in, depending on what is going on with her skin, my goal would be a lactic peel facial. Then next week depending on how things are, a TCA multi layer peel, then either have her break for the 3rd week and continue homecare, and 4th week have her come in for a lemon zest with dermafile. That way she shouldn't be flaking or anything for her meeting.

On another note, I did a lemon zest with pump of TCA on myself.....LOVE! I got a little flaky the next day but nothing major. I think I will do it again next week :).

Thanks for all of your help!

Permalink Reply by Lisa VanBockern on July 12, 2013 at 11:22am

I like the plan listed above.

The TCA really is a fun, results-oriented peel that is safe. I'm glad you are experimenting with it and feeling the effects (without too much trauma).