Help, please. New client/new esthy to SS :)

Thank you for taking the time to offer your advice and suggestions.

I have a new client that came in for a very brief consult earlier today and I'm torn as to how to proceed. I'll give her background then discuss my concerns...

Mid-20s, female, Fitz 2, currently feeling sensitive. Presents with acne scarring(pitting) on cheeks, residual redness on cheeks, blackheads on forehead and chin, a couple pustules on cheeks/jaw.
- When asked if breakouts were cyclical, client stated she does not currently have a menstrual cycle. And is not taking any meds.

Chief complaint: cheek/jaw breakouts, uneven color. (Would consider tackling acne scarring at a later date.)

Struggled w Grade 3 acne from 13-17yrs old. Prescribed many meds from Derm over the years. At one point was using a rx strength BPO face wash. She 'liked the results' but when asked why she stopped using the product, she stated she decided to stop seeing the Derm.
- She said she is quite sensitive to all of the Salicylic Acid products she has tried in the past and is not willing to try those again.

Client does not currently cleanse in the mornings and uses a BareMinerals powder cleanser in the evenings. She splashes water on her face in the AM and then applies NARS tinted moisturizer w SPF30 and a little powder blush.

Client is interested in homecare product regimen but not interested in in-studio treatments. I explained how this would affect goal outcome and she understood. She's on a budget and wants to focus on homecare.

After discussing her current homecare routine, I discovered that she does not usually stick to one 'routine' for an extended amount of time.

I discussed the role of skin/function/brief anatomy and then touched on the importance of proper homecare, efficiency/effectiveness of professional skin care, and gave a brief treatment plan option. However, now I am second-guessing myself and feel as though I want to offer her another option. (I presently use PCA and SS in my backbar and I retail Image and PCA.)

Sooooooo....

All this to say, what would be your professional advise for my soon-to-be client if she were to use SS products?

My initial brainstorming would be: Green Tea Citrus Cleanser 2x/day, Retinol Scrub 2-3/week, Vit C Serum 1-2x/day.

Thoughts?

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Kyong on August 15, 2013 at 2:35am

I should add, she is on a limited budget and wishes to continue use of the Nars Tinted Moisurizer SPF30 at this time...

Permalink Reply by April Marie Krhovjak on September 27, 2013 at 10:41am

I could really see the NARS being a problem GloMinerals has a sheer tint with spf

Permalink Reply by Sheila Gordon on August 15, 2013 at 6:11am

I would check the Nars first for pore cloggers. Did you discuss diet at all? So many things that could be triggers for her.

A good basic regimen would be a good start and if you felt it was worth your time have her come in w a clean face and just use hf or blue led on her.. Or just a quick enzyme treatment and cut ur cost.. Cleanse exfoliate sunblock.

It's hard to say what would work, is she oily or more dry? She may need some hydration with either the cuc toner or ageless serum. I like the regimen but worried she may dry out too much.

Permalink Reply by Kyong on August 15, 2013 at 10:08am

Thank you for your reply and feedback, Sheila.
I'll check and be in touch!

Permalink Reply by Kyong on August 15, 2013 at 10:35am

Sheila, Quick review of the NARS reveals algae extract and talc. (I think I remember someone suggesting that algae can be quite comodogenic?...)

Permalink Reply by Lisa VanBockern on August 15, 2013 at 9:05am

My choice would be Glycolic Cleanser, Retinol Scrub (used 4-5 times per week), Cucumber Toner and Ageless Hydrating Serum. Exfoliating, yet hydrating.

Permalink Reply by Kyong on August 15, 2013 at 10:11am

Thank you for your swift feedback, Lisa!
May I ask the advantage of the glycolic vs Green Tea cleanser?
Thank you!!!

Permalink Reply by Lisa VanBockern on August 15, 2013 at 10:23am

Ahhhh ... have you never tried our Glycolic Cleanser? It's a 17% glycolic with a pH of 3.0. This means its similar to a mini chemical peel. Glycolics are excellent at dissolving desmosomes so that surface corneocytes will release and shed (opening up a follicle so sebum can free flow instead of clogging). Our Green Tea cleanser is a mild cleanser meant to be a great antioxidant cleanser to cleanse, remove makeup. But the glycolic is meant to be a treatment cleanser. I always recommend 2 cleansers, but since you mentioned your client is on a budget, I chose the "wow" product.

Permalink Reply by Kyong on August 15, 2013 at 10:27am

Wonderful, thank you for clarifying!!! (And nope, I haven't tried the glycolic wash yet.)

I just pulled up the SS site and am getting ready to place an order and include the Retail Testers to get some hands-on time w the line.

(I currently retail two other pro lines and am looking to scale back/eventually omit one of them.)

Permalink Reply by Kyong on August 15, 2013 at 10:34am

Lisa,

Client states she feels sensitive (and somewhat oily and has a shine by end of day) at the moment. Would you recommend ramping up to using the glycolic every day? (I know you stated prior that you prefer clients to use 2 cleansers usually.) I'm worried her skin will react negatively to using the glycolic 2x/day every day at first...

Permalink Reply by Lisa VanBockern on August 15, 2013 at 11:33am

If she is sensitive, slowly introduce it. Maybe 2-3 times a week. Never use the glycolic cleanser 2x/day - that would definitely be too much. Good luck!