A client I'm currently working with has grade 3 inflam

ed acne.  She's been on a 5% BPO every other night over all for a couple of weeks now & that has helped reduce the inflammation significantly.  Her homecare is good & she is faithful to follow it.  I'm considering a microderm for her next treatment.  what would you say to me?

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Comment by Rachel Geschke on August 14, 2013 at 5:58am
No problem. :)
Comment by Tracy Hopkins on August 13, 2013 at 11:15pm

Thanks Rachel! You haven't heard the last of me ... I think you may be my new "go to girl" for my acne ?'s ... if that's Ok?

Comment by Rachel Geschke on August 13, 2013 at 6:18am

Acne doesn't quit till it either burns itself out (old age) and will or can flare again with hormonal event or big stressor. Bpo is keeping her clear, in the event she stops it could definitely come back and she could be exactly the way she was when you started. Having acne myself I wouldn't want that to happen. With face reality we are constantly increasing homecare until clear,then must maintain homecare indefinitely. Generally protocol is to reduce slowly and if skin flares strengthen it again till clear. It takes approx 3 months for acne to clear. 90 days for development. We do daily bpo application to keep comedones from forming among other topical, etc to push clear. We look at diet, cosmetics application, comedogenic skin care, chemicals, and more on medical history. I would keep her on homecare if she's clear and strengthen if she breaks out again. We strengthen every two weeks the skin gets used to products. Great job, I love treating acne.

Comment by Tracy Hopkins on August 12, 2013 at 11:24pm

I'm using Dermalogica's "Special Clearing Booster" which also has some tea tree & zinc sulfate.  It says it can be applied up to 3X's/day which leads me to believe it's quite mild even though it's a 5%.It was my understanding, & intention, to use the bpo until the inflammation was under control & then ween her off.  How long do you plan on using it for yourself? It's not intended as a long term product is it? With a grade 3 inflamed dry acne condition how long does it usually take you to get the skin turned around with the protocol you use, considering the client is compliant with her homecare?

Comment by Rachel Geschke on August 12, 2013 at 6:33am

I don't take any client's off bpo before peel or dermafile. I use it with all my acne clients, I use face reality products and peels and also pca skin peels. I have used a tca, pca peel, sensi peel (pca), and skin scripts glycolic. I have been using 5 percent bpo for months daily among other topical to keep acne lesions from forming along with dermafiling and peeling myself. Now I don't know what kind of bpo your client uses or brand, or if she is using an all night application and if it's being used with a moisturizer, which can halt its effectiveness. I love treating acne and I am face reality certified in it.

Comment by Tracy Hopkins on August 11, 2013 at 10:48pm

Hmmm ... that does make sense & I appreciate your insight.  To be honest, I was wondering about what you said about starting & stopping the bpo.  Til recently I've tried to stay away from the bpo & so I don't have a lot of experience using it.  Really?!? You don't have cts go off bpo for peels, Huh.  What strength, & pH of peels are you using?  I went ahead & micro'd her & took her off for a couple days.  I'll be seeing her again Wed & am anxious to see what has occurred ....

 

Comment by Rachel Geschke on August 11, 2013 at 1:15pm

I would only do microdermabrasion if she is clear of inflammatory lesions.

I would just peel her till then and extract. Any time she stops bpo New lesions can form. Too bad you can't peel without taking her off. Face Reality peels we don't have to stop, maybe only the night of the peel and sometimes not even then. I use bpo 5 percent myself, unless I really am sensitive after a peel I still apply. Also she is clear due to bpo, taking her off Will probably cause reinsurance unless acne has burned itself out. (Doubt it)

Comment by Tracy Hopkins on August 4, 2013 at 11:40pm

Again, thank you for taking the time to respond.  I feel affirmed & encouraged.  She does have very resilient skin that tolerates product & treatment well.  With this info I will reaccess when I see her this week & determine btween the micro & the peel.  I have instructed her to stop using the BPO & the other exfoliant 3 days prior to treatment & then to begin exfoliating again possibly 3 days after depending on how she responds.  And I will probably ease off on the BPO. Thanks Cindy!

Comment by Cindy Greenwood on August 4, 2013 at 5:40pm

If she no longer has inflammation and is clear then you could look at a peel or microdermabrasion.

Keep in mind that if she is very "reactive", then you do run the risk of a set back. I have seen esty's go too much too soon - especially dealing with acneic clients - with disappointing results.

I would lean towards a peel (sal blend, mandelic, or even a light TCA), unless she has a lot of surface debris and/or scarring. If so - go with your gut and fire up your midcroderm!

You've done a great job of moving her along and educating her!

Comment by Tracy Hopkins on August 3, 2013 at 9:40pm

Great ?'s Cindy.  Thank you for responding.  I started with a Detox facial & then did 2 blackhead relief express facials all about 1 1/2-2 wks apart.  The ct. is using Dermalogica Clearing wash, followed by the MultiActive toner & the oil free spf in the AM.  In the evening she cleanses, multiactive toner & then alternates evenings of the 5% BPO with a glycolic/salicylic pad & finishes up with Active Moist or a hydrating gel product with 100% Aloe Vera & some anti-inflammatory ingredients.  The ct. uses Tarte make-up.  The ct is heading off to college in about a month & is anxious to get things as cleared up as she can before leaving.  Now that we have the inflammation more or less under control & I can see that the ct is compliant it just seemed like a good time to really clean up, & off, that top layer.

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