I have a client coming in, in a few days that is currently using retin A, and hydroquinone. She has had cystic acne in the past and says she has some acne now which is why she is using the retin A. She also says she has a lot of pigmentation, much of which is from the acne. My question here is where do you think I should start with her? My first thought is to try and switch her to some safer products that can still be beneficial to her, but which kind of products should I start with since her skin is probably pretty sensitized? Let me know what you all think and where you would start.
Thanks.
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Hi Sara you are absolutely right, get her off those products and be careful while in treatment. Use seaweed based products as thy are safe for any skin except for those allergic to seaweed. Dead see products such as Shira Cosmetics that I use would help her at home too.
Use high frequency if you can on her and gentle but full of minerals products. I hope this helps
FYI:
I would choose Solar Energy group of products from Shira Cosmetics. Not expensive but good. No fragrance, non drying no oils just minerals
Thanks I will look into those products
Here is a link to this product line
http://shiraesthetics.com/index.php?cPath=58
after acne is under control, just light breakouts you can switch to this http://shiraesthetics.com/index.php?cPath=32_62
Some people won't do any exfoliation while clients are on retin A. Find out the % and the frequency of use (I have one client who uses hers only ONCE per WEEK and she gets iritated and flaky for a day or so), and her current reactions (if any). I am not a fan of HQ - although it is a necessity for some people. Find out % and how long she's been on that.
Honestly I have found that the people who want skin lighteners are the WORST when it comes to sun protection.
I would make it a requirement for this type of client to purchase and use sunscreen. I offer a cream spf 30 and suggest that they also purchase my powdered brush on sunscreen for re-application during the day.
I would - depending on whether she has irritation or inflamed acne present - probably start with an enzyme peel and calming masque. I would work with her to get her on a good homecare routine - this is probably where she is missing the boat. You're going to have to take it slow and sample a lot...but I would get her on a blemish control cleanser - switch that up with a gentle cleanser to start so she isn't over-drying her skin. A Hyaluronic serum would be very appropriate. If she is NOT oily, I have had good luck using a glycolic cleanser rather than a salicylic...but I start VERY slowly - once a week increasing to every other day.
And vigilant sun protection.
I would get her off the prescription products if possible - she may not even need them.
Many people get breakouts from cosmetics and hair care products - you might want to look into that too.
Thanks so much that is very helpful.
So if she does have pigmentation, should I have that be the last thing I worry about? Get her off the prescription, work on her acne then focus on the pigmentation, right? And basically focus on keeping her from getting more pigmentation from the current problems.
Sara, I am new to the aesthetics world but from my experience I would say she should stop using the Rentin A as this is really drying for the skin and in turn making her super sensitive to the hydroquinone. I would get her on a good glycolic and microdermabrasion (if available) treatment series. This will combat both issues without overdrying. She is definetly going to need a good SPF and daily moisturizer as well. Now some others may have more advanced experience in this but I can say this works as long as she is going to go along with in office treatments and home care. I use a lot of Skinceuticals products..a little pricey but works wonders. But I think someone mentioned using a good seaweed based product..those works wonders as well..
My people on a glycolic cleanser experience great results in evening out pigmentation.
They still have to be on sunscreen or anything you do is a waste of time.
inflammation and sun/heat exposure are the problems. So by paying attention to those you ARE treating the hyperpigmentation.
I mostly use a line called vital therapy, it is a line dedicated to using non toxic as well as more natural ingredients. I also use some dermalogica (mostly because I have to where I work) and then a few enzyme peels from Skin Script.
My first instinct was to first get her off the Hydroquinone as well and when I told her that she was surprised because the Estheticians she has been to never had a problem with her using it. I plan to talk to her about the risks of using it though and other safer ways to help her skin.
Wow, so glad to see another Vital Therapy Esty, I as well use VT. The VT liquid WOW is great for hyperpigmentation, have you tried that yet? Or the Vitamin C serum as well, maybe not instant gratification but she will love the way her skin feels and looks after using for a while.
I just re-read your first post. Knowing you use VT , start her on the Acne wash, liquid WOW, and Acne peptides. Also I would reccomend, probiotics and digestive enzymes to help flush her system.
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