How did you choose your skin care line?
I'm in school currently and I love skin care, and Im familiar with a lot of the skin care lines.. but I know their are TONS. How did you pick your skin care lines besides what is offered at your salon? Was it just trial and error?
I know entering a salon you don't have much control over what lines they carry, but Im curious on how you found the lines you like? Im not a fan of BioElements and Image.. I know A LOT of salons carry them, but I want something more aggressive..
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Marty Glenn on
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Sorry but I could not find the comment but it had to do with 3 types of peels:
1. Lactic Acid
Follow the same procedure for GA but know that Lactic is not as strong and normally is considered a gentler AHA.
2. Kojic Acid
I dont use this ingredient because it is under FDA acne guidelines and for the most part unless you use a specific percentages has not huge increase over AHA, BHA or TCA. There comes a point where you have to stop and spend your time with what you have and not everything under the sun. I know other lines have it but this is just my path
3. Resorcinol
Follow the same procedure as you would a Jessner. Jessner's main acid is the resorcinal. The other two are not of concern based on the main and with either 7% or 14% and coat dependent its pretty difficult to mess this up unless you totally blow the client exam before the peel and pre prep and post peel care.
Marty
SkinCareScienc.com
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Permalink Reply by Amy Sherman on
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What? A little coconut oil isn't going to clear up that acne? :D
Acne like above is so devastating to the self esteem, the clearer you can get your skin the faster, the better. I used to have skin like that. I did not use Accutane because I was not a good candidate for it at the time it was just hitting this little dinky town I live in. I will say two things: Diet DOES make a difference and did in my case. Self care makes a difference. LED made a HUGE difference. Peels made my acne worse. I now know why, but at the time, I had grade 4 acne and peeling skin. Now, as you can tell, I'm all clear, but it's only taken 20 years. Accutane could have fixed that very quickly.
It's not all bad and I agree with Marty on all of this (but the peels) :D
Glad you're here Marty!
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Permalink Reply by Tina unger on
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Marty,
Do you sell samples of your line?
Thanks for all the info.....I really appreciate it!
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Tina
Yes. But I recommend reading the manual first or at least looking through it. Give email and I will send you a link before you spend any money.
Marty
SkinCareScience.com
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Permalink Reply by Samantha Maline on
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The thing about Accutane is how often it's being prescribed before less invasive steps have been tried. I would never try to treat the acne such as above (except on my cousin but I was trying to manage it not cure it and kept telling him to see a derm). However, it's shocking how many grade 1, 2's, and maybe 3's I've seen where the dermatologists have just jumped on the acne bandwagon. Case in point is a 16 year old I'm treating right now where they simply wanted to put her on Accutane and her parent's said no. It's a grade 2. We're 6 weeks into treatment and 6 more to go until we're done but we're already cleared up considerably.
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I tell most of my clients that acne is systemic. Meaning its usually caused by internal junk going on. I can clear it up (and do for grades 1-3) using a calming/holistic approach combined with my treatment line. Accutane has it's place, but I have to agree with Samantha, I have found that this what dr.'s around here go to first. I have issue with benzoyl peroxide and I certainly, especially as a Social Worker, see the havoc wreaked on the emotional side effects of Accutane. Just saying....
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Samantha
If your client is not currently staying out of the sun maybe another talking to is in order. Her ears are inflamed as well as her face. I am assuming this is pre treatment since her forehead is oily and looks untreated.?.?
The acne on her chest is the dead give away to me that you are going to have a much harder time with her skin. Does she also have anything on her back?
I cannot tell if she has bangs or not but looks like inflammation and aggravation do to sports and or keeping bangs to cover. also stress related?? boyfriend or parents?
Her forehead is way out of control in comparison to the type of acne blemishes she has on her chest and on other parts of her face. That is why I looked for the external factors.
All picture guesses but glad you posted. Site and client unseen it is always fun to throw out ideas and guess. Best of luck to her, you can tell she is a cute girl; not fun for her.
Marty
SkinCareScience.com
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This was post treatment and after i had applied moisturizers. Which is why she's not matte. Her first treatment 6 weeks ago. Her acne is a bit harder and yes its on her back as well. What I perceived her condition to be is obviously hormones= excess sebum production as well as sports (her body acne indicating). However her forehead is hyper keratosis of the follicle wall cells just in that area. Her redness is due to post treatment extractions except her ears (which I don't think was sun but rather heat from just getting done with volleyball practice). We started with 4 express extraction facial one week apart. Since then we've done one PCA peel with resorcinol (2 peels are planned 2 weeks apart) and then we will reevaluate where we're at (we may complete 2 more peels). So 6-8 treatments then a break. She has just started a lactic wash & toner (for the keratinized cells) and a light retinol moisturizer and weightless 45 sunscreen. She just started my home care program a week ago because I refused peels until she did. So we will see. Also, she really doesn't have bacterial proliferation or inflammation so while the treatment moisturizer has calming extracts I've chosen not to treat with benzoyl peroxide or anti-inflammatories.
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Samantha
This is one of the most detailed and high level descriptive posts I think I have read on this forum for a long time. Can you explain a few things to me, cause I feel if I don't ask for the newbies, they might not. Some of what you wrote I do not know or can not talk to.
How do you know this? .....hyper keratosis of the follicle wall cells just in that area
What are these? ...4 express extraction facial
What strength?...PCA peel with resorcinol
Keratanized cells? ...for the keratinized cells
What does weightless mean? ...weightless 45 sunscreen
How do you know? ...doesn't have bacterial proliferation or inflammation
I attached some documents I think you will really like.
Marty
SkinCareScience.com
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Peel_Depth_Cell_Thickness.pdf, 211 KB -
Skin Regeneration Cycle.pdf, 136 KB
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Youthful_Glow.pdf, 115 KB
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This wasn't where I was going with this post when I posted the pictures because I was trying to demonstrate the type of acne many estheticians are dealing with that doctors are prescribing "Accutane" for rather than safer options. I think many assume that when a doctor prescribes Accutane that there is always "just" reasons when many times it's just the easiest path to take because it will cure all types of acne no matter how light.
But I will indulge your curiosity. There are four contributing factors to the presence of acne and acne can be any combination of these. They are excess sebum production, hyperkeratosis, inflammation, and bacterial proliferation. Hyperkeratinization of the cell walls leading to a blockage of the follicles is more common in "dry acne" or people who are not actually oily by type but rather a dry skin type that can be conditionally oily, as in the case of hormonal teenagers. In this young girls case she has normal to dry skin and the cells within the pores/follicles on her forehead (and the back of her arms) are becoming keratinized before they exit the pore through natural desquamation. As a result they get lodged inside and subsequently block the movement of oil and sweat out of the pore/follicles. It's different than in oily people who can also have Hyperkeratinization but more often are dealing with excess sebum plugs because of too much oil/not enough room to exit and the oil stagnates and hardens creating a plug composed of mostly sebum. You need to treat these two types different because BHA acids remove sebum plugs efficiently while AHA acids are better utilized on plugs composed of dead skin proteins.
Okay I feel like this is going to get excessively long if I explain every detail in my reasoning so I'm going to make the rest short and sweet.
Extraction facials are pore cleansing facials designed to physically remove the plugs and stimulate the skins natural ability to purge and move the junk.
PCA is a Jessner's peel (10% salicylic, 10% lactic, 10% trichloracetic + resorcinol & hydroquinone).
Let's not argue over medical spelling because usually this stuff comes out my mouth and not my fingers.
Weightless is the name of the PCA sunscreen I sold her. It just means it's super light so it doesn't leave a greasy feel because she's a teen that wants to look matte and most sunscreens look greasy.
The absence of bacterial proliferation (specifically large colonies or plumes of bacteria) is noted by the lack of pus and infection. Most of the redness seen in my pictures is due to extractions. Normally her acne looks dry and flesh colored and mostly looks bumpy not in inflamed or red. Which is another signal that large amounts of bacteria are not present because it's usually the toxic waste p. Acnes excretes that causes the erythema and edema of the pores.
Because acne is so diverse, approach to it should be methodical and customized every time. Which is why the 2% BHA wash sold in drugstores is grossly ineffective.
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I love this conversation
Thanks
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Samantha
Don'y worry. You will never see me type big words or sound medical. That is what I call grand standing and I have never done it.
How do you know this? .....hyper keratosis of the follicle wall cells just in that area
Got that but I was confused becasue you used a "K" and in the SC its with a "C" so I got confused on the depth of the skin.
What are these? ...4 express extraction facial
OK Got it, but I would not have used this type of peel: PCA is a Jessner's peel (10% salicylic, 10% lactic, 10% trichloracetic + resorcinol & hydroquinone).
Here is why (not saying your wrong just stating for newbies). With so many different acis and the addition of HQ and all the different percenatges you will never know the exact acid and percentage and pH that is helping her skin so you are do a lot wihtout REALLY know what specifically is working. IMO that is putting too much trust in the product line.
What strength?...PCA peel with resorcinol
Got it but the above applies
Keratanized cells? ...for the keratinized cells
Again confused by the word usage and the layer of the skin cells you were referring too but I got it now.
What does weightless mean? ...weightless 45 sunscreen
Got it. You refreshed my memory I have heard of that the sun screen before in my travels.
How do you know? ...doesn't have bacterial proliferation or inflammation
I disagree with you here since the bodies natural response to anything is white blood cells and inflammation and acne by nature is bacterial but I get what your saying.
great. thanks for the lesson.
Marty
SkinCareScience.com
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