Hi everyone! First happy "day after" the 4th!  I have a 90 min. facial scheduled soon and was wondering how you what you do in your 90 min treatments?  I have basic moves/technique but it would be nice to see how people are utilizing the time.  Also, it would give me some new ideas!  Thanks so much!!!!

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Ive personally havent done a treatment that long before, but when I read your post I was thinking maybe do an eye treatment, or use and rubberizing mask to help stretch the time a little. Also a couple mins with shoulder neck massage. They may just want to really relax.

Diane.

 

That's a long time... :)

 

Here is what I would do… really rough draft.

 

Assuming Fitz 3 - 4 (No special Skin Conditions)

 

1. Mask Hard - DO NOT CLEANSE WITH PRESSURE or REMOVE with too much pressure.

:20 relax, discuss areas of concern (take notes), Tell client what you are going to do; cleanse, mask (one that dries), massage neck.  Use a gentle pre peel cleanser prior to mask but use only a light layer of mask so when you remove it, it is easy.

 

 

2. Glycolic Acid - 10 - 20% 2.0 pH.  1.5 - 2 min max (very very light peel)

:20 cleanse soft mask; Pre Peel Prep: 10% - 20% Glycolic Acid peel. Max - 2 Min. Will not burn (Very Mild) but will help exfoliation and at these percentages and pH, there is no risk and no reason (***SEE BELOW FOR CLARIFICATION) for pre or post peel products except sun screen. If you do not have this low of a percentage do a 1 part 30 - 40% GA and 1 part water to buffer it down. What you can do is one dropper solution to 1.5 dropper of water. But make sure you keep time at 1.5 – 2.0 minutes max and keep fan on.

 

 

OK so here is a special idea.... :)  If you do not have all the paperwork and the pre peel contra in order, you should not perform the GA peel.  Even at 10 -20% you have to cover your basis.  Always.  Must have those signatures and contra points in order. So...  If your not going to do the peel, take saline solution and your fan brush along with some lotion that has been heated up just a bit and mix together in a 70/30 Saline/Lotion.  And use the fan brush to apply.  Make sure you are soft as feathers and do that for a bit.  The warmth and glide of the brush will feel really good and the lotion-saline mixture will hold up nicely for easy application and easy removal.  Practice this mixture before appointment, so you get it just right.

 

3. IF YOU DID GA PEEL - Post peel cleanse - leave a post peel balm on the skin and use small hand held fan - Massage neck and décolleté

 

4. Mask Soft (Will counter the Hard mask and the water (drying) your cleansing with, with all of these steps - relaxation time – mask must not harden) Also will relieve GA peel if you do this step.  But must be really soft non-hardening mask.

:20 post peel cleanse; apply mask that does not harden (must stay soft), relaxation, massage shoulders

 

5. Eye Treatment - Hydration  / Vitamin / Anti Aging

:20 Post peel protocols; eye treatment - let stand; hand treatment; massage arms and fingers.

 

6. Face Massage - Hydration  / Vitamin / Anti Aging

7. 50 / 50 Mix Lotion / SPF (SPF is known skin irritant)

:10 Close treatment with final Lotion / SPF moisturizer

 

 

*** Lots of Neck and decollete massage with arm and hand massage when masks are on. I dont massage during GA peel, ever.  I watch.  Talk. Get client feedback.

 

The use of steam is something I do not advocate too much but that is not to say it does not have its place.

 

You are really layering here with a lot of product.  The client cannot see what you are applying but only the mechanics and pressure of your hands / fan brush.  Use less then you would normally so that you do not over stress the skin with removal.  When you finish the last step of course apply as you would normally. Use the softest 2x2 or ?  that you have for cleanse when moving from step to step. I think that part will be critical.

 

I hope this helps, just an idea.  That’s a long time; 90 minutes.  I am sure your client no matter what you do will float away.

 

 

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

 

 

 

 

Thanks Marty! Lot's of ideas!

I LOVE working for 90 minutes!  My "basic" facial is 75, but when I do Radiancy, it bumps it to 90.  Now granted, I have lots of technology to use, so I really need that time.  I will outline my steps and aprox time, and then I will do an outline of how you could replicate without machines.

  • Analyze ~5min
  • First Cleanse (emulsion cleanser) ~3 min
  • Analyze again and discuss exfoliation options ~2min
  • Deep Cleanse (foaming or exfoliating cleanser, steam or no steam) ~3min
  • Tone ~1 min
  • Arm and hand massage (to allow skin to dry for micro or dermaplaning) ~8min
  • Exfoliation (my options are enzyme, ultrasonic, peels, microdermabrasion, dermaplaning, or dermafile) ~10min
  • Extractions ~10min
  • Tone ~1 min
  • Red/Infrared/Blue LED ~12min
  • Apply mask ~3min
  • Do high frequency over mask if clay mask, or microcurrent over mask if cream mask ~6
  • Let mask stand while doing upper body massage ~6
  • Remove mask with hot towels ~2
  • Tone ~1
  • Apply serum and infuse with either microcurrent or ultrasonic ~10min
  • Apply eye cream ~1 min
  • Recap facial highlights and results with client ~2min
  • Share outcome expectations and recommended home and office treatments with client ~3
  • Apply moisturizer with SPF with massaging motions ~3min
  • Apply lip protection ~1min

The total is actually 93 minutes - as you can see, I am hustling to fit all these steps into my 75-min facial. 

Now, if I were going to adapt my protocol to have no machines, here is what I would do: 

  • Analyze ~5min
  • First Cleanse (emulsion cleanser) ~3 min
  • Analyze again and discuss exfoliation options ~2min
  • Deep Cleanse (foaming or exfoliating cleanser, steam or no steam) ~3min
  • Tone ~1 min
  • Arm and hand massage (to allow skin to dry for exfoliation) ~8min
  • Exfoliation (enzyme, peel if indicated, or a scrub) ~10min
  • Extractions ~10min
  • Tone ~1 min
  • Apply antioxidant serum with mask brush ~1min
  • Upper body massage ~10min
  • Apply mask over serum ~3min
  • Ice over mask if you did heavy extractions, otherwise wrap mask in hot towel and perform scalp massage ~6min
  • Let mask stand while doing neck or foot massage ~6
  • Remove mask with hot towels ~2
  • Tone ~1
  • Apply serum and infuse with massage manipulations OR steam OR heat (wrap dry towel under hot towel under dry towel) ~10min
  • Apply eye cream ~1 min
  • Recap facial highlights and results with client ~2min
  • Share outcome expectations and recommended home and office treatments with client ~3
  • Apply moisturizer with SPF with massaging motions ~3min
  • Apply lip protection ~1min

For a total of 92 minutes.  The only thing that will really throw off your timing is if they don't need extractions. If this is the case, spend a lot more time toning throughout the facial, and you should make up the lost time.  If you get in a pinch, you can always layer masks or do a second mask.

Good luck!

Also, if you are wondering how I spend 5 minutes on the first analysis and 2 minutes on the second analysis, the key is TALKING.  In addition to consulting with them on anything unusual from their intake form, I get information like what products they're using, whether they're from around here (tells me the impact of the climate and allergens on their skin), what upcoming social events they might have (so I know what I can/can't do), what they do for a living (and how that might impact my future recommendations, eg., peels), and how they came to find the studio (tells me what they value in a treatment).  Anything to get them talking SKIN and they will start to spill their frustrations, goals, and experiences.

WOW! Thanks! This definitely gives  me ideas :)

Most all of my facials are 90 minutes.  Relaxation and Renewal are important to me...I am a nurturer, and I truly love those 'pieces' of the facial. Don't get me wrong....I am all about the skin, and helping my clients get those results! However, to me giving my clients more of an 'experience' is what I am all about, and what separates me from many other esty's in my area.  I 'balance' the skin w/ properly chosen oil infusions than follow w/ a beautiful facial massage after the purifying portion of their facial (this could be an enzyme peel w/ ultrasonic exfoliation, or microderm w/ botanical flower grains, or other form of exfoliation (and possible extractions). My facial massages can include warmed bamboo tools, cooling selenite wands and other stones, or simply with my hands. I love the facial massage (as do my clients). By the way...facial massage is excellent for the skin! Gives them a glow due to increasing circulation etc...   I also do an amazing foot and calve massage during a mask time...and also a hand/arm massage of some sort may also be included. I never leave my client alone. If a mask needs to sit on their face I will do something to relax them further while it sets. My client has my attention 100% of the time! Also...if they are getting say an Oxygen Infusion AND LED light therapy that eats up 50 or so minutes right there! Between cleansing/ possible enzyme and ultrasonic exfoliation 90 minutes zips right by! I hope this helps Diane!

By the way... I never add in the time I use for their consult. If they are first time clients I let them know to add-on an additional 20-30 minutes to their facial time. 

Hi Jill, omg your facial sounds great, what products do u use, and what is warm bamboo,cooling cell invite wands, and oil infusion, how can I incorporate them, where can I purchase, and anywhere can I see your technique.i only do basic facials and I am trying to get my waxing clients to try my facials but I need to bring in something different.plzzz help, I only use basic equipment steamer, light microdermabrasion. Thank you

Thank You Denise! I experiment with new ideas for my facial massage portion often. ;)  I look on youtube for great ideas that other estys may do as well. I bought from Universal Companies the' Bamboo Visage Facial' tools! It even comes with a DVD to help you with a protocol. I kinda do my own thing now with them. It's lovely in the Winter...because the tools are warmed in a 'heating pad' while you are working with them. IT FEELS WONDERFUL!!  In the Winter I tend to use more cooling tools....I don't even remember how I ended up using Selenite Wands. Selenite is a crystal (and some believe they carry an energy all their own). If you look on Amazon you will find some. Mine are fairly large and easy to hold in my hands. I use them much the same way that I use the the longer pieces of the Bamboo Tools. SO cooling and fantastic to use on clients that suffer from headaches/sinus issues etc. You just have to experiment and get in the flow. I tend to get inspired by the beautiful music on my spa list and 'go with' the song that's playing at the time of my massages. Also...I recently purchased a nice camcorder so I can do some videos. ;)  I don't have any as of yet...but, soon!  

take your basic 60 minute and add LED for 15 minutes and while you are doing it, give a foot and calf massage.  If that isn't your thing (which it never was mine), slap on some gloves :).  Then at the end you can give a 15 minute scalp massage. So in a nut shell

Cleanse, analyze, steam while gathering skin type appropriate products, 2nd cleanse, exfoliate (you could do enzyme with dermafile if you have one) massage neck and shoulders while doing this, exfoliate lips with scrub,  remove with warm towel, tone, extractions, facial massage, warm towels and massage with towel on, serums, nourishing mask, hand arm massage during that, quickly clean and sanitize bowl and tools used, remove with warm towel, tone,  apply more serums, maybe an eye serum, then do you LED (if you have a hand held then you can hold it, if you can put it on the face and do something else then do your foot massage while they are under LED, then apply your moisturizer, sunblock and lip nourishment.  I don't ever leave the room when my clients are there and I am always hands on, except when I go to my sink which is in the same room.  Hope this helps!!   When is your 90 minute?  I have my mom coming in and I usually try to do 90 min with her so I can tell you more clearly after that.  Also, you could throw in a brow wax or somehting.   

Sheila- I use to do a lot of them back in the day but the hour treatments are more popular. I am doing the session on Thursday and the lady is new. Also she said she never pampers herself so she is in for quite a treatment. Especially with all theses ideas!!

I am sure you are going to rock it!!  Please give us an update when you finish and let us know how it went and what you ended up doing.  You could even incorporate some hot stones.  The Esthetician I trade with uses hot stones on the neck, shoulders and arms and it feels wonderful! I am thinking about incorporating them myself.

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