What challenges are you having with your acne clients?
Having problems getting someone clear?
Having a hard time with compliance issues?
Need new ideas for products or treatments?
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Bessie Ktistakis on
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Thank you!
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Permalink Reply by Sally Connor on
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I had an email to our group from Samantha asking about treating acne on a 12 yr. old.
I cannot locate her on these pages to respond or read responses. Anyone else run into this???
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Permalink Reply by Samantha Davidson on
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I am here. i might be under Valley Girl. I have been searching the sight just to see this post. I can't seem to locate my original post with my questions. hmmm? Anyway I have a few young girls (12 years old) that have blackheads. One has them really bad on the cheeks. She is fare and they are very stubborn. It is hard to really get down and extract on someone so young but they are stretching her pores. I have been using Aveda's Outer Peace exfoliating clay mask with steam and then extracting. But I am wondering if there is a better solution. I have sent her home with a cleanser and a mild moisturizer. But... she is 12 and I am not sure she is that vigilant with home care. I told her not to use salicylic acid (which she had in her home care originally) because I don't think she is super oily. Do you think that is correct? My understanding would be glycolic acid but again she is young and that can be a little strong. Any ideas? thanks again Samantha
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I think these girls are lucky to be addressing this issue in the beginning!
Acne travels across the face. At their age I would expect to see it in the T-zone. The client that has blackheads on her cheeks makes me wonder if it might be acne cosmetica (ingredients in cosmetics/toiletries/cleansers). There can be a six-month lag in appearance of symptoms... numerous, slightly elevated whiteheads appearing over the cheeks, chin, and sometimes forehead. I would definitely check for this.
Dr. James Fulton has a list of products with comedogenic ratings that would be an excellent resource ( Acne RX, his book).
It may take several weeks. It will require some flaking and peeling of the skin to unblock the plugged pores. Some redness and irritation is likely to preceed the peeling. The end result is a gentle dryness and flaking that may be noticeable if one looks closely but isn't so obvious as to shock you when you look in the mirror (as Dr. Fulton states :) ). The peeling is more of a flaking off, not peeling off in pieces. Start slow and increase as needed to create the desired peeling.
You may not want to moisturize/hydrate an already oily surface. If you feel you need to, use a water-based, lightweight lotion or gel formulation that contains more humectant ingredients (such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin) than waxy or oily emollients. Careful about the checking the ingredients.
A cleanser with 2% salicylic acid will disolve dead keratin cells plugging the pores and help prevent acne. A facial wash that also contains benzoyl peroxide, an antibacterial agent, will prevent bacteria from overpopulating in the pores. Both of these are drying, so good if truly oily skin.
Vitamin A lotions used in addition to BP can speed up the peeling to unblock the pore.
Sulfur added to benzoyl peroxide lotion (BP becomes twice as effective).
Additionally, if the acne is primarily whiteheads and blackheads, a benzoyl peroxide scrub cleanser may be all that is needed.
If the face is studded with whiteheads that are not maturing into blackheads (maturation arrest acne) the dead skin cells or kertinocytes become trapped inside. This is tough to treat and requires peeling (extensive) to force the impactions to open up. BP and a vitamin A lotion might be a good combination.
I like AVEDA's liquid exfoliant (salicylic acid). Wipe on leave on; it's easy. I often have clients use that after cleansing (AM and/or PM, depending on their needs).
Good luck and fill us in on what all you decide to do and how it works out.
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Thank you very much. Alot of good info. I am not super familiar with BP in treating acne but thought I should be going that direction. Do you think I could use bp under a exfoliating mask when I am giving her a facial to help loosen the blackheads? I am very familiar with Aveda's exfoliant. I have been using that when I treat her but she doesn't have any at home. I will see what I can do about that. I don't think she uses make-up or anything like that but I will ask her again to see if she ever has or ever does. Thank you again I will keep you informed about what helps and how it all goes. Samantha
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Permalink Reply by Laura Cooksey on
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Hi Samantha - using bpo under an exfoliating mask in a treatment might be a little too aggressive, imo. I would rather see you start her with a water-based bpo formulation in her homecare. Start sloooowly with it. 15 minutes for the first 3 nights, 30 minutes for the next three nights, then 1 hour for 3 nights, then 2 hours for 3 nights. This is after cleansing and toning. After washing it off put on a noncomedogenic moisturizer for the night.
After that wearing schedule, she can then wear it overnight, but with no moisturizer over or under it (unless it's a water-based hydrator). Any oil will occlude it and stop it from penetrating into the pore.
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Hi Laura,
Would you opt out of the BP cleanser in place of BP in a treatment formula?
Anyone,
Has anyone found an OTC (over the counter) BP cleanser or treatment formula that does not have commedogenic ingredients (preferably water-based, I think)?
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what bp product would you use? I ordered Dr. Fulton's book. I also took his webinar a couple months ago. I treated the girl that has the really bad blackheads today. The homecare situation is not happening. I used a 30% glycolic under an enzyme mask. The blackheads wouldn't budge. She was very sensitive today so I had a heart to heart about using a homecare system. I am not sure she is even washing her face regularly. It is going to be a process. I am at a loss as to which would be a good acne system. I know Proactive is not supposed to be good but a lot of the kids will see that and order it. I am not sure why it's a bad line other then it seems to work for a little while then stops working. Yikes so much to know. thank you for all of your advice. Samantha
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Hi Samantha - well, I have my own wholesale line of acne products which includes bpo. If you want to know more about that, let me know as I don't think we are supposed to market ourselves on this forum. We can chat via email. You can get 10% bpo from Vivant (Dr. Fulton) or on the other end of the spectrum get Neutrogena's On The Spot 2.5% bpo (but don't just spot treat, use all over). And yes, you need much more than just a bpo cleanser to get her clear.
Ah, compliance.. we deal with it everyday in my acne clinic. Ask her what her goals are - if her goal is to have clear skin, then the ONLY way she will get it is if she does her homecare religiously. All the treatments in the world won't get her clear, because you have to prevent the acne from forming in the first place which is what the homecare does. Even skipping one night will give you chronic breakouts. Those microcomedones get started and will show up a month later.
Yes, there is so much to know and it's an absolutely fascinating aspect of aesthetics to study. And, it ain't rocket science... with a few key concepts under your belt and the right products used in the right way you can become the acne expert in your community... seriously!
Let me know if you want more info, ok?
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yes I would like more info. I looked up Vivant after my webinar but I wasn't real clear on what I needed etc... I will go back on the websight and have a look around. And I am waiting for my acne book as well.
I have a few girls that have much milder breakouts that would benefit from some type of cleanser.
I will be talking with this girls mentor and see what can be figured out. 12 year olds aren't always sure what they want or need to do. So with that said we will march on as best we can. thanks again Samantha
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Samantha - you can either email me at - laura@facerealityacneclinic.com; or you can add me as a friend so I can email you on here. I can't do that if you haven't added me. And then I can give you all the info you need, either way.
Or, even better - you can call me at my office. Today is a really light day so I'm available to speak to - 1-866-477-3077.
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Permalink Reply by Kellie Campbell on
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Hi Laura,
When adding a retinol propionate serum to ones homecare after they have been using mandelic serum in the day and BP in the evening would they continue to use the BP in the evening with with the retinol over it?
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