Microdermabrasion leaves dark lines on black client's skin... why?

I have been working with a traditional crystal microdermabrasion machine for over seven years. I have used it on all skin types without ever having a problem. Two weeks ago I treated a client I have been working on for over a year. She now has dark lines along her temples and onto the cheeks where I treated her. After two weeks they have not faded. I did not turn the machine up and she did not complain of discomfort during treatment. I have used digestive enzymes and fruit enzymes in the past on her with good result. I am concerned and unsure of how to treat her when she returns in a couple of weeks. She has decided to use a HQ in the mean time to fade the dark lines (I asked her to get permission from a dermatologist before she treats the pigmentation, but she did not agree with me). Does anyone know what I should do to help her skin return to normal?

Tags: micordermabrasion, pigmentaion

▶ Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Terri Owsley on December 17, 2012 at 11:00am

Hi,

I went on realself.com and put in your question, here is a link, I hope this helps:

http://www.realself.com/question/does-microdermabrasion-additional-...

▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Jennifer Ondo on December 17, 2012 at 3:22pm

Thank you, very informative and helpful

▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Andrea Sowter on December 19, 2012 at 5:57am

I'm so sorry this happened to you Jennifer, I agree that you are dealing with post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. I have experience with this one.

As a general rule, I am extremely cautious offering microderm to any higher Fitzpatrick type. Even darker Caucasian skins, and especially African American, or anyone who has had post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (the dark spots you described left from inflamed areas such as pimples or ingrown hairs ) this is a big red flag for you to proceed with extreme caution.

In general, on African American skin I would only do microderm on the lightest setting, and use a professional melanin suppresant first. I also require that they use a home care melanin suppresant (usualy kojic acid- which is natural) and SPF daily. I stress the risk of PIH to them to hopefully encourage compliance.

Also, I avoid using any sort of enzyme or acid treatment in conjunction with microderm for higher Fitzpatrick types, as well as any sort of mask or serum that could be sensitizing post- procedure.

The higher the natural melanin content of the skin, the higher your risk for this.

Good luck!

Edited to add: Make sure you are not applying pressure on the hand piece, and that the passes are even and smooth.

▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Cindy Greenwood on December 19, 2012 at 6:26am

Great info Andrea, thank you so much!

▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Andrea Sowter on December 22, 2012 at 5:15am

Sure! I have had this happen to me twice (once on an African American client and once on an olive skinned Caucasian). I worked for years at a spa that did an combo enzyme/microderm treatment using Glo's enzyme, followed by microderm, followed by three to five minuttes of Glo's Lactic. I saw great results for all sorts of clients with this treatment. Flash forward a few years, I start my own practice, and following the exact same protocol, give two clients PIH. Come to find out, my microderm machine is much stronger than the one we used at the spa. I was devastated. Since that time, I never combine chemical exfoliation with microderm, and am super cautious with higher Fitzpatricks.