Dermaplaning, does it work?

Does anyone have experience with dermaplaning? Is it a good treatment? Pros and cons?

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Permalink Reply by Shelley Hancock on March 26, 2013 at 6:24pm

I used to do it years ago in a Plastic Surgeons office I worked in...LOVED it! You really need to be trained well. I've heard a few horror stories of clients having it done on them incorrectly and left with scratch marks. We are not actually allowed to do it here in California, I got away with it because of being in a Docs office.

Permalink Reply by Sheila Gordon on March 27, 2013 at 8:39am

I have done it, but it's not my favorite, especially when we have things like peels and micro.  As far as vellus hair reduction, I feel like waxing would remove the hair much better.  I have the dermaplane done to me a few times and although the estys were new and practicing, I just didn't feel like my face was smooth and now I feel like I just see more little hairs.  I have a friend that does dermaplaning all the time and swears by it though so I think it's a matter of preference.  I typically lean more towards peels. 

Permalink Reply by Summerr on May 3, 2013 at 11:30am

I do dermaplaing and I love it!  I do it on myself every couple of weeks and I really notice a difference in my skin.  I like the way my make up and products go on after also.  Hair will not be gone as long as it would be with waxing but i don't so much use it for hair removal I just like the way it exfoliates the skin.

Permalink Reply by coldsalineplexus on May 4, 2013 at 5:50am

Lots of experience performing and receiving dermaplaning.  I think it's a great treatment, and my clients really love it.

Pros: 

  • Can use it on certain skin where micro is contraindicated (milder forms of rosacea, for example)
  • Treatment masks and serums absorb beautifully afterward
  • LED light benefits are improved because there is less hair and dead skin obscuring the absorption of the light
  • Can be used same-day when a client has an event (in this case, I use only peptide and hydrating products once I have dermaplaned, to avoid redness)
  • Can be used in conjunction with a peel (we call this a double peel, and consider it one of our most intensive peel services)
  • Lots of fine control allows you to work around problem areas, for example, working around picked spots if you have a client who is still working to stop picking
  • Even better than microderm if there is a proliferation of open comedones.  The blade sloughs off the top layer of the comedone and often eliminates the need for lancets when you go to extract.
  • Older women with lots of peach fuzz love it

Cons:

  • Similar to microderm, every now and then you will have a client who reacts strongly to a product used after dermaplaning
  • Compared to microderm, you do not get the pelting action of the crystals, which stimulates collagen.  Then again, using a robust glycolic toner after dermaplaning may have a similar effect on the fibroblasts, and skin certainly does look plump and healthy after the treatment.
  • You have to be sure to point out the differences between dermaplaning and shaving each time.  Sometimes clients will get it into their heads to just shave their face in the shower...  with very unpredictable results.
  • Depending on the blades and the hair, it may take 2-3 blades to treat the face.  I have heard that the blades sold by SkinCeuticals are better, but I have no interest in opening up a $5k account with an overpriced skincare company just to get blades.  I get mine from Moore Medical for about $20 for a box of 100.
  • The first few faces you do will include a bit of scratching and the possibility of nicked skin
  • Like other more aggressive exfoliation treatments, post-treatment sunburn risk is high, so this is not a great one for closet sunbathers
  • It's a sharp object...  I once cut my fingertip and nail bed while removing the blade from the handle.  Now I know to always break off the blade with a towel wrapped around it, but it certainly ruined that particular facial!  Fortunately the client was a dentist's wife and immediately assured me that she is clear of bloodborne pathogens (she knew to give me this info because her husband has been in similar situations), but theoretically there could be a transmission risk, and certainly if you have a client with known HIV or Hepatitis, you would not want to risk this treatment on that person.
Permalink Reply by Angie on May 13, 2013 at 6:43am

I love derma planing and so do my clients. It is a wonderful treatment. Reading the review prior to mine. I use hemostats to remove my blades. I would surely cut myself if I removed them any other way.

Permalink Reply by coldsalineplexus on May 13, 2013 at 7:53pm

Wow!  I think I would stab myself if I tried to maneuver the tension between the blade and the handle with hemostats, LOL!  I can just see it now...

My method is to place the scalpel flat on top of a towel on the counter, fold the towel up and over it, place my hand firmly flat on top, and break the blade at the point of the handle.  While my hand is still firmly on the towel, I twist the handle gently with my other hand and pull it out of the towel.  I then gently unfold the towel and both broken blade pieces are there inside.  I pick them up gingerly with my gloved fingers, and pop them into the sharps.  Hopefully that's a little easier to picture :)

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