Mendalic Acid after microderm

Does anyone know about using mendalic acid after microderm? Just informed that it was the best acid to use after microderm. If you have any info about it please let me know, Also what the percentage. Thank you, Sara

▶ Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by patricia elaine dewey on September 2, 2014 at 4:46pm

Good Evening, Dr. James Fulton MD has a Webinar on the ASCP Website in which he says chemical before the physical--so the microderm would be last. Do not know about mendalic acid, sorry.

▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Marty Glenn on September 2, 2014 at 10:03pm

Patricia

I hate to disagree with Dr. James Fulton MD but...

The difference between a chemical peel and microderm as it relates to aiding in the exfoliation process is HUGE!

1. Microderm is man-made machine with man-made pressure (women made ;). What this allows for is massive differences in the way that it thins the stratum corneum (SC). You will have highs and lows as you move the hand held piece across the skin. Not saying it does not have its place within esthetics but this post is only something to consider.

The SC cannot fight the man-made machine with man-made pressure and when you are exfoliating superficially a little fight back is a good thing. Before I explain this I have to say this:

Within the epidermal layer there are substances called desmisomes and within the SC they are called corenodesmisomes and they are one aspect of what holds the skin cells together (both Korneocytes [within the epidermal layer] and Corenocytes [within the stratum corneum] ). Corneodesmisomes within the SC are at all different stages of the degrading process so with that said microderm does not discriminate. It takes all of the good with the bad. But also does it inconsistently across the surface of the skin because of its process.

While chemical peeling with Glycolic acid and mendalic acid alike allow the skin to fight back. Or said better: when the corneodesmisomes are on there way to degrading the acid helps it further or speeds it up and when they are stronger it further helps the degradation process in the same manner but taking longer since they are stronger. Another benefit is that the process of a chemical acid on the skin also triggers collagen and other healthier functions of the skin to get a kick start, while with microderm this is to a lesser degree if at all.

Unless your dealing with TCA or Resorcinol or Phenol the skin can keep things in check against superficial peels like glyclic acid and or Mendalic acid. The peels mentioned within this sentence are stronger and when applied in multiple coats, the skin has less of a chance to fight back but the above mentioned theory still stands.

Now for the disagreement...

When you apply a chemical acid before microderm here is what you are doing:

The acid is applied and the corneodesmisomes are weakened. It takes days for skin cells to react with the acid and slough away. So here you apply the acid and THEN within minutes apply a man-made machine with man-made pressure and MECHANICALLY take away all the skin cells from stronger connection to very weak connection and probably go deeper in some areas then in others and create all kinds of highs and lows across the SC.

So the point is: Why was the chemical acid ever applied in the first place if the chemical acid was only given 15 - 30 minutes to act on the skin when it takes more like 24 - 48 for a superficial peel to act on the corenodesmisomes? Remember we are not talking about TCA, Resorcinol or Phenol which are coat dependent and way more aggressive as the number of coats are applied. We are talking about TIME dependent acids. Time was never given before you applied the microderm and took all the good and the bad...

Conclusion: Based on the actual physical make up of the skin and when analyzing the difference between chemical acid and man-made machine with man-mad pressure, there is no reason to do a chemical peel before microderm and more importantly in the revers order.

Hope this makes sense.

Marty

SkinCareScience.com

▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Robin McDonald on September 3, 2014 at 8:46am

I agree, Marty - I was horrified at the suggestion of applying any acid of any kind before microderm - question: overall, do you not recommend microdermabrasion? What's your take on Hydrafacial? Thanks!

▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Marty Glenn on September 3, 2014 at 9:02am

Robin

Microderm like scalpel dermaplaning both basically do the same thing and have been around for a long time.

Here is the point to remember: Both the above mentioned exfoliaitors you can SEE as you do it. The fear for chemical peels is the unknown because you cannot SEE it as it is working.

The interesting thing about this is that when you thin the SC with any method all the post procedure complications can be there no matter what method you use. And what I find most alarming is that the method of SEEING the exfoliator work is what makes esties more confident then actually learning what the skin is and is doing and what the acid is and what it is doing at what strengths and pH (time or coat dependent). The last sentence is what will help with post peel care and complications the most...

I am sure I answered your question. ;)

As for the Hydrafacial? I think you can probably best answer this question if you only look at the actual physical makeup of the skin and how it functions. ;)