Peel for hyperpigmentation on African American skin

I have been using Rhonda Allison for about 4 months. I haven't used their Glycolic peel yet but I do have it in my backbar. I posted the following on the main forum and I thought I would post here also:

A lady called today who had purchased a Groupon for a progressive peel. She is wanting to treat hyperpigmentation and generally improve the texture of her skin. She said she had gotten 30% glycolic peels before and had been happy with the results. She later went to a new place for a 30% glycolic peel and it was not the same. She does not know the brand used at either place.

I use Rhonda Allison for my peels and they only offer a 20% glycolic. I have serveral of their other enzymes and peels on hand but not everything. I recently ordered the samples from Skin Scripts and I have their 30% glycolic sample. I would appreciate any recommendations for a peel. The Groupon is for any of the progressive peels (basically the ones that can be done 7-10 days apart). It does not include mid-depth or deeper peels.

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by NBSkinCare on January 28, 2013 at 9:04pm

You know, I don't often work on Fitz higher than a 4 or 5. So, I don't feel quite qualified to answer for peels for African American skin color. Its a Fitz type I'd love to feel more comfortable with, tho, so I'm interested in others' answers. I see a lot of Caucasian and Asian women, 20-40s, in my area.

I will say, tho, that I like TCA for pigmentation, more than Glycolic.

Also, I believe Rhonda Allison has some pictures up of the Kojic Clay TCA that she did on an African American women and had good results for acne and pigment. I believe its on her website under protocols or videos.

There are ways to make the Kojic Clay less of a mid-depth and more of an Aggressive-Progressive, too, using:

Glycolic Herbal Wash

Fruit Acid Botanical

*Blemish Serum (optional)

Cell Conditioner

Kojic Clay TCA

Vitamin A+ Peptide

Arnica Therapy

Daytime Defense

I have the protocol for this. Its states

*INDICATIONS

Great for congested acne skin or hyperpigmentation

Fitzpatrick I to VI*

Don't know if that helps at all! :)

Permalink Reply by Nicole on January 29, 2013 at 9:42am

I think I have all the products except the Kojic Clay TCA. I'll get some with my next order. I may start her off with a glycolic peel though. I need to see her skin first I'm just trying to think ahead. Have you used the RA 20% glycolic? What were the results? Thanks!

We need to get more people in this group! I know there are more people on here who use RA.

Permalink Reply by Ally Draizin on March 11, 2014 at 7:10pm

I would use a 2x2 non-woven pad to lay down a layer of Melanin Suppressant Solution, let it absorb for 1-2 minutes, then apply 2 layers (same application method) of the 10% TCA/AHA peel (allow 2 minutes between layers). Leave on, allow to dry, and leave her with a layer of growth factor gel & eZinc mixed together. This is probably your best bet as a progressive peel, because the 10% TCA/AHA is controllable (layered) and has a lot of lighteners in it. Used with the Melanin Suppressant, it would be a great progressive peel, no down time. If she has that thin, sort of sticky/tacky textured skin you keep an eye on it because that is very delicate skin.

I don't think the glycolic would do much, but if that sounds intimidating you could use the H2O2 mixed with a dropper of Melanin Suppressant (leave on 5-10 minutes) then rinse off and apply some Naturale Mega Brightening Serum & eZinc.

Permalink Reply by Wendy E. Reese on April 5, 2014 at 4:19pm

It sound like this client wants results. Since she's a groupon she may not want any add ons. I would first want to know her oil production. If she has more oil to her skin you could consider lotus. Or you could use the glycolic 20% with a layer of mandelic and argenine. Really, so many possiblities with this line. What do you have in your back bar right now that you could utilize. Best!

Permalink Reply by Julie Hawley-Solache on June 6, 2014 at 2:05pm

I have an African - American client Fitz 6 with some minor acne and more than one kind of pigmentation issues. The protocol I used was pumpkin cleanser with 2 drops of cell conditioner in it then 1 layer of melanin suppressant applied with gauze and firm pressure. Wait till absorbs, then 1 layer of the mandelic arginine with a brush. Keep checking for reactions or too much redness. Then add in a layer of vitamin A + peptide peel work in gently wait for a minute then add omega 6 efa and spf. Send home, leave on over night! At the 1 week follow up the skin looks great! And they usually want to re-book for next month. I had great success with this formula. Hope it helps.

Permalink Reply by Roberta Gilbert on June 26, 2014 at 7:43pm

I am a fitz 6 and the first peel that I ever got was PCA Sensi peel. It can be layered and kicked up with boosters. I am a true oily/acne skin type with acne scarring. I LOVE Love love the Sensi peel. I don't know much about your client or her history but a 30% glycolic peel is a bit strong . She may want fast results but I don't know how safe that is. Also AA skin runs the gamut from lily white to deep onyx. You will have to be more specific about background, and skin condition. I am new to Rhonda Allison's line, but they seem to have a very customizable range. And anyone who wants a peel 7-10 days apart must have some really resistant skin. To be on the safe side I would educate her on the benefits of going low and slow. Those pigment issues didn't happen overnight and they sure won't correct that quickly. Can she commit to a 90 day program and agree to proper home care?

Permalink Reply by Carmen Watson on October 15, 2014 at 7:28pm

I think the 20% Glycolic would be a great peel to start her on with "your treatments". Never mind what she had before, the RA 20% Glycolic is great because it is gentle on the skin, meaning she will not have layers of skin visibly peeling off, but will still produce wonderful results as far as improving the texture and starting to lighten. Even though it is what I would consider a gentle peel I personally recommend a patch test but that's up to you. Then if she does well with the first peel, when she comes back maybe add Melanin Suppressant Solution and then work her into something stronger. I love RA 20% Glycolic. I work on all skin types and have used many popular medical grade skincare lines but RA is my fav. I also think she has some of the best peels out there. I believe you can change the skin just as well, if not better, using progressive treatments as opposed to harsh aggressive ones.