Peel for hyperpigmentation on African American skin

A lady called today who had purchased a Groupon for a progressive peel.  She is wanting to treat hyperpigmentation and generally improve the texture of her skin.   She said she had gotten 30% glycolic peels before and had been happy with the results.  She later went to a new place for a 30% glycolic peel and it was not the same.  She does not know the brand used at either place.

I use Rhonda Allison for my peels and they only offer a 20% glycolic.  I  have serveral of their other enzymes and peels on hand but not everything.  I recently ordered the samples from Skin Scripts and I have their 30% glycolic sample.  I would appreciate any recommendations for a peel.  The Groupon is for any of the progressive peels (basically the ones that can be done 7-10 days apart).  It does not include mid-depth or deeper peels.

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Permalink Reply by Denise Ivers on January 29, 2013 at 9:19am

Hi Nicole,

I'm not familiar with the Rhonda Allison line.

 

Honestly I'm very cautious when treating a brand new client that I know nothing about.  I did run a peel special with Trubates a couple yrs back but used PCA Sensi on every new client and just customized and made it stronger with more layers.  Can't do that with the 30% glycolic.  I had many clients say that they had stronger peels and wanted the strongest I had.  I explained that all lines are different and your skin can react differently to each one. Hence the reason I offered a 2-peel package.  This way they would come back and I could do a stronger peel if necessary.  It's so important to protect your client from any possible reactions and cover your buns!

I too use Skin Scripts and love the line.  Here's an options but before you can decide you really need to take a look at her skin.

Lemon Zest- This is a great enzyme for lightening and brightening the skin.  Add a pump of glycolic 30%  or lactic 20%.

Permalink Reply by Nicole on January 29, 2013 at 9:30am

Thank you Natalie and Denise for the advice.  Natalie I was hoping to start with something I already have but I'm willing to order something if that will be best.  I would like to stick with either RA or Skin Scripts for now.

Denise- will the Lemon Zest offer a noticeable difference?  Do you think it works better than the glycolic alone?

Permalink Reply by Denise Ivers on January 29, 2013 at 9:47am

I've had great results with the Lemon Zest and yes a noticeable difference but that can vary from client to client depedning on the condition of the skin.  Adding glycolic gives it an extra boost so yes I think it works better this way.

Permalink Reply by Patricia Solis on January 19, 2015 at 6:53pm

In what instance would you use one acid vs the other, meaning the latic vs the glycolic from skin scripts

Permalink Reply by Sara West on January 21, 2015 at 9:00pm

Lactic is for sensitive to dry skin Glycolic is for acne and anti aging.

Permalink Reply by Adrain Davidson on February 1, 2013 at 8:49pm

Hi,

    I would recommend that you have the client come in for a patch test.

Permalink Reply by Cherrica Myers on January 21, 2015 at 2:17pm

Clients get desperate for improvement and will tell lies. Always use caution when using acids! Especially on black skin. Our skin will be ok under 1 glycolic peel at 30% if in good condition, however after the 2 or 3 the skin goes crazy breakouts and all. Dry flaking and can even get infected, you don't need that. Ethic skin needs to be exfoliated gradually and monitored. Building up through tolerance. Make sure to hydrate, calm and soothe immediately afterwards. The skin will look great and you'll get repeat business. She's not satisfied and searches for a good esty, education her that she needs enzymes or lactic acid peels for best results, stronger peels may work once or twice at most then a breakout or other unwanted issues may arise. Have a great day. 

Permalink Reply by Sara West on January 21, 2015 at 8:57pm

Hi Nicole, I use Dermalure http://www.dermalure.com. They have all peels at all %. Talk to Shawn, 424-226-6464. They ship very quickly. I'm ver happy with their peels.

Hope I helpede. Sara

Permalink Reply by Dana Cochran on February 21, 2015 at 9:28pm

Hi Nicole:  I know it's been awhile since you psoted this question, but I am new on this site.  I work in a plastic surgeon's office and we use a pharmaceutical grade Melanage Mini Peel that works great on higher Fitzpatricks.  If the client really wants to get rid of hyperpigmentation, she may need to go to a doctor's office and do a peel stronger than what we can offer in our place of business. 

Permalink Reply by Marty Glenn on February 22, 2015 at 10:02am
Nicole,

Check with your state but you might try using TCA at 10%. The result will be close to that of a Glycolic if you do not bring to frosting. There are ways to use TCA which is mild and since it is coat dependent may offer you slightly more flexibility. But the key here is no visible frosting, 1 - 3 coats max and being very careful on the amount of liquid applied.

I have performed this with great results but the key here is the pre peel prep for at least two weeks prior to the peel. A resurfacing product along with a skin lightened such as HQ at 2%.

With that said, what makes me nervous about your entire post is that the person is a groupon customer. Nothing against them or a person wanting a special deal. We all love them, but from what I have heard within the skin care industry that groupon yields clients that ae not up to par when it comes to following directions with pre and post peel care. With that said they also do not purchase the necessary at home products to insure that post peel issues are kept at bay.

Marty
SkinCareScience.com

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