Sensitive Skin Client with Hormonal Acne - Need some help

I am pretty familiar with Skin Script's protocols and the products I should prescribe for this client, but I'd like to see what others' think.

She has been using Dermalogica for about 7 years, and I think she's just become immune to it. She also gave birth to her son a couple years ago, and that's when her acne became worse.

She has sensitive skin, but would classify herself as having combination skin right now and a lot of uneveness. I'd like to start her off with samples to see how it goes for her, and she lives in another state (IL) - she is a family friend, and I suggested she might want to find a Skin Script provider in her state to provide facials and peels if she can't see me.

Her acne doesn't normally come to a head - it's the common description of large bumps with nothing coming out of them.

For a homecare routine, can you suggest the exact samples I should start her out with? I'd really appreciate it. Also, she is using Glo Satin II Finish foundation and Smashbox powder as her makeup currently. I don't know much about those products, but I'm going to look into it to see if they contribute to her problem.

Any help is really appreciated!

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Sheila Gordon on May 20, 2013 at 7:32am

Def check for pore cloggers in the makeup. I know Glo's sheer foundation has 4 pore cloggers in it so double check. You can check against Laura Cooksey's list from her website. Diet for sure, salt, dairy, etc. WHere are the breakouts mostly? I am wondering if she isn't more dry and having tight clogged pores that are turning into inflammed papules. I only say this because this was my issue. She probably maybe feels more oily because of that Satin finish makeup. I would have her switch to Pur Minerals 4-1 liquid mineral and if she wants a powder, go with the bare minerals translucent one. I checked both and they are good.

With her saying she is sensitive, I would be hesitant to put her on anything with acid so ideally you would think Pom Cleanser or green tea. I really like for myself the combo of the Blemish at night and Glycolic in the morning and then sometimes green tea instead of the gly, but I am not sensitive. Is she doing any exfoliating with the dermalogica? Maybe you could get her on the retinol scrub...to me it's not aggressive and the jojoba beads are so gentle. Maybe she needs some hydration so cucumber toner, light aloe moisturizer or ageless and sunblock. I think it's hard without really seeing her because she says it's one way and her skin is likely another if you know what I mean. I am betting making some diet changes and changing the makeup will probably help. Keep us posted and let us knwo what you think as well.

Permalink Reply by Sara Kathleen Bohlmann on May 30, 2013 at 9:25am

Hi Lisa and Sheila

I have my client on the products now (just samples) but she likes them! Then we'll start going into enzyme treatments. I told her about switching makeup too. Sheila - I think I should switch over myself because I feel like I'm still breaking out constantly and my milia is out of control. There's a starter kit with Pur I think I'll get. Are you using Bare's Trans. powder? I don't have that one and currently use Clinique Trans. Powder. I am really hating my skin lately and you know how awkward it is to do a facial on yourself. If I send over photos of what I'm dealing with do you think you both could weigh in some options for me to try with SS? I have some scarring on my forehead and right cheek. Milia in my cheeks and upper corners of forehead. Tried dermafile with pome. enzyme only once. Did a gly peel and cran turnover right after last night.

Permalink Reply by Sheila Gordon on May 30, 2013 at 9:38am

OK, yes change makeup for sure. I use the PUR liquid 4-1 and bare trans powder. Some of the other pur has pore cloggers. I also use the Pur blush. Maybe try using the blueberry enzyme. I have used this one on my cousin with really awesome results for breakouts. She swears by it.

Persnally I use the following. I have HP, had bad clogged pores, and hormonal breakouts. My skin is combo, oily through cheeks and forehead and dry mostly everywhere else. Chin has tight clogged pores where I tend to get my hormonal breakouts.

AM: Glycolic wash, retinol scrub 2-3x/wk, tone with blemish pad or just cuc toner (depends on time of the month), vitamin c and ageless serums, light aloe moisturizer with sunblock mixed in,

PM: Blemish wash or green tea (again depends on time fo month), glycolic pads, mandelic serum or vitamin a serum (from Face reality for now) let absorb, then ageless moisturizer.

I use the eye serum and follow with the cream am and pm.

I just did 4 layers of the TCA on myself and I Love love loved the results. Changing makeup is the start to getting the clogged under control. The milia (as Lisa has said) is a lack of water in the skin, so hydrate. Maybe you are over exfoliating and over drying? I know when I break out at times, rather than have patience I tend to want to peel the crap out of my face. LOL. If they are bad, ice a few times a day and if you can get a hold of the control correctives suplhur mask, spot treat and sleep in it. WORKS WONDERS!!

Permalink Reply by Sara Kathleen Bohlmann on May 30, 2013 at 9:00pm

Hey Sheila

Thanks for taking time to share your experience about this. As for my skin, I'm always oily. Large pores. No sensitivity. Never dry. Only HP I have is a couple dots on my cheeks and above my lips but nothing major. I wouldn't think I should do a TCA on myself though, right? Since I'm fighting more of the breakouts and milia. I hydrate and drink tons of water (mostly water is all I drink anyway). I tried SS protocols for myself and didn't really find that any of the products worked well for me so I switched back to Image and some of Glo. And you could be right, that I'm overexfoliating and not hydrating quite enough.

So I checked the samples CCorrectives sent me and I didn't get a sulfur mask!! I'm kinda mad !!! So I'm going to check this stuff out and see if I can get it. I just hate looking in a mirror, seeing my shadow in the sunlight or what have you, and seeing these larger pores, milia and then acne scarring on my forehead and right cheek. I wonder if I should use blueberry enzyme with steam and dermafile to help scarring? I'm not even sure what to do!

And thanks for the info on Pur - I don't want to purchase a whole set if only one of the products is actually okay for my skin, but I'm going to definitely get the PUR liquid 4-1 as you suggested.

Permalink Reply by Sheila Gordon on May 30, 2013 at 9:58pm

Where are your breakouts mostly? Acne scarring are you talking about red/purple marks or white scars? We are always our worst critics, so trust me that people aren't seeing what you are seeing!
Unfortunately what works for one may not work for another... Just have patience. Give yourself a good 6-8 weeks.. Check everything for pore cloggers (list on Laura's site). Take a look at your diet, etc. if you are freaking.. You are stressing your body which only affects skin. If you want something instant, maybe talk to a ps or derm about a laser treatment. Just a thought.... If you are feeling impatient. You will find the right balance.

Lisa can prob answer the TCA ? Better because I am not sure. I don't see why you couldn't but maybe glycolics/sal is better. What peels are you using? Glo has a protocol for doing that combo.

Permalink Reply by Sara Kathleen Bohlmann on June 1, 2013 at 9:50pm

My breakouts occur mostly on the cheeks. I honestly haven't been breaking out for a really long time until I was extracting milia the other day (which were on my forehead and cheeks). Then I had the "pizza face" going on. It's much better now, but what I hate most about my skin is the scarring and larger pores on my cheeks and in the middle of my forehead. Pictures attached. I'm goin to look on Laura's site for the pore cloggers again, but as for diet, it's not great but it's not horrible. I drink tons of water. I don't eat a lot of meat, and maybe I need more protein, but I usually just put chick peas or legumes mixed in with quinoa and fresh vegetables. I eat that most often. The peel I did this past week was 30% glycolic and then the Cranberry Turnover (i believe it's listed in SS protocol list as alpha beta peel).

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Permalink Reply by Lisa VanBockern on May 20, 2013 at 9:03am

Sheila said it all. I agree that the makeup could be a major contributing factor. I would also ask how if she's consistent about using her homecare. Does she ever fall asleep in her makeup?

For homecare, I like Green Tea Cleanser, Retinol Scrub used 3-4 times per week gently, Cucumber Toner, Ageless Hydrating Serum and Light Aloe moisturizer. Let us know how it goes!

Permalink Reply by Sara Kathleen Bohlmann on May 20, 2013 at 11:53am

Thank you Lisa and Sheila. I'm taking your recommendations and starting her off with some samples. I had a feeling about the Glo makeup too, which is why I asked. I'll keep you updated and am going to be asking her the questions about sleeping in makeup and everything else later today. I'll be in touch!

Permalink Reply by Dave Waggoner on May 31, 2013 at 10:07am

Great comments and suggestions on this thread!

Sheila: Your suggestions are right on! I also agree that the makeup could be a major contributing factor. Like Lisa, I would also ask how if she's consistent about using her homecare.

For homecare, I like Green Tea Cleanser, Retinol Scrub used 3-4 times per week gently, Cucumber Toner, Ageless Hydrating Serum and Light Aloe moisturizer.

Sara: What you are describing to me sounds like papular acne. I would suggest that you are dealing with displaced p.acnes bacteria. Gentle hyrdation like our Cucumber Hydrating Toner is the ticket as this establishes a probiotic food-source for the non-pathogenic bacteria. This food source keeps them happy and healthy!

Permalink Reply by Cheryl Bruss on May 31, 2013 at 8:56pm

Awesome Dave I was always wanting to ask but kept forgetting, about how or what to use or do to get the P. Acnes Bacteria back to the surface of the skin for food (eeew) lol So just keeping the skin lightly hydrated with do this ? :)

Permalink Reply by Dave Waggoner on June 3, 2013 at 8:48am

Moisturization plays a big role in keeping the P. acnes where it belongs. In our Cucumber Hydrating Toner we use and ingredient known as "fructooligosaccharides" which are naturally occuring carbohydrates derived from can or beet sugar which promotes the growth of healthy probiotic bacteria to strengthen skin immunity.

Permalink Reply by Sara Kathleen Bohlmann on June 1, 2013 at 9:55pm

SHEILA:

DAVE: So my client wrote to me today saying how much she loved the samples and that her skin is looking amazing, so I'll be placing an order soon! As for the papular acne, are you referring to myself or my client, Dave? I tried to attach some photos of my own skin so I can get some help with that. I tried using the cucumber toner this evening since I never had on my own skin. I am real oily, larger pores, breakouts are rare lately but I have a lot of milia that are extremely difficult to extract.this is a photo of my scarring on my right cheek